6 Steps To Follow For Staining An Unfinished Adirondack Chair
Without regular staining, an unfinished Adirondack chair (and indeed all outdoor wood furniture) will soon turn gray and suffer wood rot
. While some people prefer the coastal style of an unfinished Adirondack chair, most homeowners would much rather transform and protect their unfinished Adirondack chairs with a rich, weather-resistant stain. By following our staining tips below, you defend any unfinished Adirondack chair against the natural elements.
Step 1: Sand Your Way to Smoothness.
Older unfinished Adirondack chairs almost always have a few splinters. Even a totally new unfinished Adirondack chair might have a rough spot or two. Sandpaper is the solution for both situations. Begin with 150-grit sandpaper, and then switch to 220-grit sandpaper to create a velvety-smooth surface. Remove excess sawdust with a damp rag.
Step 2: Get Your Safety Equipment Ready.
Wear gloves and protective goggles. Be sure to stain in a location with excellent airflow, to protect your lungs. Lastly, because staining can be a messy job, you may want to protect the floor of your workspace with a tarp.
Step 3: Condition Wood.
Applying wood conditioner is a great way to avoid discoloration later on. Simply put down a thin layer of conditioner, and allow 15 minutes of drying time before brushing on stain.
Step 4: Select a Stain.
There are two main categories of wood stain: oil-based and water-based. (A few manufacturers do create oil/water hybrids.) Dyes, pigments, and mineral spirits combine to create oil-based stains. In general, oil-based stains need more drying time, since oil penetrates deeper into wood pulp than does water. This trait also results in a more even finish. If you plan on leaving your previously unfinished Adirondack chairs out in harsh weather, oil-based stains are the superior choice, since they are more durable than water-based stains. Those who live in moisture-prone locations should be sure to select oil-based stains with mildew inhibitors.
One advantage of water-based stains is that they exist in more colors than their oil-based cousins. Those with lung conditions should also choose water-based stains, since they don't release noxious fumes. For the same reason, water-based stains are the more eco-friendly choice. Water-based stains dry faster, resist flames better, and are easier to clean up with soap and water. Don't worry about looking for a mildew inhibitor; water-based stains resist mildew naturally.
Once you've selected a stain base, decide on a tone that will flatter your home's exterior, as well as an opacity level. Opaque stains offer more protection, but more translucent stains better showcase wood's natural beauty.
Step 5: Stain like a Pro.
Distribute color in the can with a thorough stirring. You can apply stain with a brush or a rag. Some people prefer disposable foam brushes when staining unfinished Adirondack chairs. Saturate every inch of the unfinished Adirondack chair with stain. Leave the stain on to encourage a darker tone, or wipe away excess stain to achieve a lighter color. Promote penetration by wiping in the same direction as the wood grain.
Give the stain a day or so to dry. Apply another layer of stain if the color doesn't strike you as quite bright enough.
Step 6: Apply a Protective Finish.
To make sure unfinished Adirondack chairs last a long time, it's important to apply a protective finish. Oil-based finishes are best for patio furniture. Some timesaving products contain both stain and finish.
by: Ashley Burke
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