Autumn Breaks.

I recently took a weeks holiday to Scotland

I recently took a weeks holiday to Scotland. Specifically, a place called the Isle of Whithorn on the South-West coast, the next peninsula on the right from the Mull of Galloway. Its apparently one of the most southerly villages and seaports in Scotland, and is a lovely place to get away from it all for a few days. Literally, all of it. No mobile phone signal, no internet and a crackly, unreliable landline. It was a wonder we could pick up Radio 2. As you might imagine, we got quite a lot of reading done. As well as walking, fishing, astronomy, ornithology, gastronomy and whisky tasting.

There is the ruin of a 12th/13th Century chapel in the village, called Saint Ninians Chapel. Interestingly, it was on the opposite side of the harbour to the mainland. The Isle of Whithorn is not a true island, but maps dating from as recently as 1782 and 1821 do show the Isle as an island. The main street was originally a causeway, with the harbour located on what was then the true isle. It seems the island has been inhabited constantly since around the 12th century, as excavation has revealed old cairns and furrowed soil from cultivation. The harbour itself was and largely remains the main attraction of the island, if you will. Formerly a trading port, it has now been turned over almost entirely to leisure craft, as well as regular landings from Irish Sea shell fishing boats. The Isles own fleet is engaged in light trawling and lobster fishing.

While there, heading for home after enjoying some ale in the Isles one remaining pub, we encountered a fishing trawler unloading their catch of scallops. Theyd originated from the Isle of Mull, one of the islands of the Inner Hebrides. The night was windy and rainy, however. So to be honest we didnt stay and chat to them for very long. They seemed pretty busy. The holiday also included a trip to Belfast on the ferry from Cairnryan. I have decided I rather like travelling by ferry. There have simply not been many occasions when Ive had to go on one, and previously Ive always done so with a vehicle, rather than as a foot passenger. But the crossing was smooth and the surroundings were really very swish. Bars, food, comfy seats, free wi-fi even. It was like travelling along in an actually-pretty-cool sort of holiday resort.

I hadnt been to Belfast before, and to be honest we did not see very much of the city itself, Id certainly like to go back and see more of it at some point. But we did visit the new Titanic museum, which is built on the very slipway it was launched from in 1911. This was a very modern, stylish telling of the inception, design, construction and of course ultimate fate of the Titanic. The shipyards of Belfast were a large part of the city for many years, both in terms of size and employment. The museum not only looked at the great ship, but the impact the construction and subsequent loss of the liner had not only in Belfast, but around the world. I thoroughly enjoyed my visit there, but to be honest I hardly think selling glittery snowglobe things of the Titanic in the gift shop is particularly appropriate.

We only had one day in Belfast however, so after the museum we found a pub. One taxi driver said it was the oldest pub in the city, but another one afterwards said that it wasnt. But still, thats the Irish for you. The ferry home was as pleasant as the first, albeit in slightly rougher seas. There was a definite roll to the vessel and some very impressive wind and spray when we went and stood outside on the boat deck. The rest of the holiday was spent walking along epic coastlines and scrambling over rocky peninsulas and getting thoroughly windswept, wet and muddy while doing so. We went fishing in the same freshwater river used to make Bladnoch whisky, ate some delicious food both at home and in pubs and restaurants, drank a considerable amount of ale and Bladnoch whisky (it was only polite, we did use their river) and on the whole had a nice, relaxing week. So, the Isle of Whithorn has been given the Bruno Blackstone seal of approval. Use it wisely.

by: Bruno Blackstone

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