Forza Magico Empoli - An Englishman's View of Italian Football
The experience of an Italian match is reminiscent of football in England during the 1980's.
Although the game has been plagued by violence in recent years; on a trip to Italy I attended a match hosted by Serie B side Empoli and became nostalgic for the more positive aspects of football that have been swept aside by the rising tide of the Premier League and increased investment in the game.
I was staying in Italy with my wife, actually it was our honeymoon, and having persuaded my new bride that football was as integral to Italian culture as the Colosseum and David, we spent a Saturday afternoon in a picturesque town 20 miles from Florence, situated in the stunning Tuscan hills.
Our first reaction when we reached Empoli was that there was a distinct lack of pre-match atmosphere around the town. No groups wandering around in replica kits, no florescent jacketed policemen. We wandered the streets looking for crowds to follow to the ground but it appeared that if there was a game happening today, no-one was going.
We were stopped by a charity mugger; he was fluent in English, but his knowledge of football was rather vague. For such a small town, it was not encouraging to hear one of the residents give us directions to the ground of I think it is over there, somewhere.'
The siesta-deserted streets of Empoli were in stark contrast to the fanatical image of football that I had witnessed on Italian television; where goals and refereeing decisions were replayed and debated endlessly.
We found the ground around two o'clock, the traditional time for the crowds to begin descending but with the exception of a group of stewards receiving their duties, there was again very little evidence that there was a football match taking place.
Although situated in such a stunning location, The Stadio Carlo Castellani is an unwelcoming venue; the graffiti-ridden crumbling walls beneath the ring of barbed wire provide an imposing, if refreshingly authentic stadium.
We found our way to the ticket office in the form of a small cabin bedecked in Empoli memorabilia and the scarves of teams from various nations.
Billet?' I asked in a questioning manor, stretching my Italian to breaking point.
When the employees realised we were foreign, we were greeted with the most amazing hospitality. An English speaking gentleman came out and welcomed us with a handshake. He explained the ticket situation on a brief and impromptu tour of the ground. He showed us sections where we could sit. Fifteen Euros for the mainstand, ten for women, ten Euros for the lower stand on the opposing side of the pitch where the Ultras congregated or fifteen for the upper stand. One of the Curva's was reserved for the away team (Ascoli) while the Home End' was not open due to the lack of attendance. An elderly lady who had noticed our arrival in the ticket office appeared with Empoli caps and lanyards as Something to remember their little town by.'
We purchased our seats in the upper stand above the Ultras and made our way in the lethargy inducing sun, past the rows and rows of scooters to the entrance.
Whilst queuing, evidence of the relationship between football clubs and politics began apparent. Empoli fans, typical of others in Tuscany are affiliated to the political left, evident by the Che' T-shirts adorning the fanbase, but punctuated unsubtly by the large 'Viva Stalin' painted on the wall adjacent to the entrance. Ascoli on the other hand are aligned with the estrema destra'.
We took our seats thirty minutes prior to kick off as the ground slowly began filling up. The sense of community amongst the fans was noticeable as the Ultras sold their T-shirts within the ground. Empoli has two main groups of Ultras Desperados' and Rangers'. The flags, banners (Forza Magico Empoli' was a particular favourite) and constant chanting of the ultras aid in the creation of a great atmosphere despite the sparsely populated ground, reminiscent of a non-league or reserve game in England.
We counted as the twenty two Ascoli fans made their way into the small but more than adequate away end each appearing to be waving Celtic Crosses throughout, demonstrating their political affiliation.
The standard of football was impressive; both team strictly adhering to the principles of pass and move, although neither side committed themselves to many challenges. Empoli ran out winners, 3-0. If the Ultras are renowned for their unwavering passion, the same cannot be attributed to all the supporters, as while the Ultras sang and waved their flags throughout, the elder Empoli residents around us in the top tier of the stand barely applauded the goals and with fifteen minutes remaining our stand emptied quicker than Old Trafford.
This was a highly enjoyable experience and certainly the essence of the game in Italy; the community, the passionate crowds, the affordable prices, now unfortunately rare in England, are still prevalent and make a trip to an Italian match a step back in time.
Forza Magico Empoli - An Englishman's View of Italian Football
By: workaround
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