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Haridwar, On The Banks Of The Ganges

HARIDWAR - Getting to Haridwar by train is a powerful experience

. Not because of the means of transport. With a low cost, in fact, you can travel in a car pretty handy in which food and the 'hot are served at regular intervals. Four and a half hours to travel just over 200 km. Only the air conditioning is unreasonably loud, but this is not surprising, is common in Asian countries.

When you get off the train, though, things change. In a small but crowded train I am welcomed by clouds of flies and a pungent mix of odors ranging incense excrement, hard to describe.

Surrounded by a swarm of insistent tassisiti, I leave the building and find myself in front of a giant anthill. Hundreds of people sitting or lying on the ground, waiting to leave or engaged to beg a few rupees. Groups of monkeys jumping up and down from the roofs of houses, while the ubiquitous cows roam the streets quiet.

The main street, just outside the station square, it is almost impractical, especially with backpacks. The horns sound almost in unison, with a pounding rhythm, the auto rickshaw and those pedals are caught anywhere between carried by hand or carts pulled by mules and a huge crowd and colorful, flowing ceaselessly, as the waters of a river.


With my brother we decide, then, to take a motorisci and give him the address of one of the hotels we saw on a rail. Of course, if you stop at least three two drivers start fighting over who we should load. When we go on our middle, however, we quickly realize that the "driver" does not speak a word of English. However, we tell him the hotel name and address, and we hope to get lucky.

Soon, however, I realize, looking at the map, the route is not right. The rickshaw is proceeding slowly, with the engine that scopietta, wincing at every road irregularities. Crosses the Ganges and lead us through an area full of beggars, whole families live in tin shacks, tents torn or sleeping directly on the floor, among piles of rubbish. The driver did not understand anything of what we said and, for some inexplicable reason, has chosen to get us out of here.

Discussing it is impossible, you should know Hindi. The pay and leave.


D 'Suddenly we realize that we are surrounded by an army of derelicts. How far can we see around us, there's' only the sad spectacle of endless misery. But the atmosphere is very quiet and no one seems to care that much to us. Furthermore, we are too tired to be concerned about what can happen to us, so we walk slowly towards the area that seems more fit to find a hotel.

After touring for more than an hour visiting the rooms of all types, from those full of cockroaches in straw huts on the banks of the Ganges, sweat soaked, we finally find a halfway decent accommodation for less than ten euros each. While waiting for the keys of the room begin to get two kids who look at us amazed with their big dark eyes. We discover, then, that for the locals, not accustomed to the presence of tourists (it incroceremo no more than four or five in two days), we are a species as the attraction.

But the true heart of Haridwar, is the 'Har-Ki-Pairi Ghat, literally "the footsteps of God." It is on these staircases leading to the Ganges (Varanasi as the most famous), who meet every evening at dusk, thousands of faithful. Walking along the river, at some point, you begin to see the giant statue of Shiva, who seems to get out of the water, with the trident in his hand. For a hundred yards more, it runs along the river between pilgrims, ascetics and common people. To attract the attention of Western travelers, most of all, are usually the Sadhus with long beards and wild hair, dressed in orange or half-naked, with ashes on his face or the stick-shaped trident.

by: Ash
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