Jewellery Chain Types
Jewellery Chain Types
Jewellery Chain Types
The Silver Jewellery Store is a UK based online retailer of silver jewellery. Consequently, this article uses British grammar, spelling, names and measures. However, this should present little or no problem since the wording is aimed at the layperson and the names of the chain types are fairly consistent from one English speaking country to the next. Only one word has been given its US alternative, in [brackets], and the reason for this will become obvious as you read on...
Introduction
There is no limit to the different styles of jewellery chain that a designer could create. Each design would show off a pendant, for example, in a different way. Over time certain types of chain have become firm favourites and the most popular of these are described below. But before getting to the chains themselves, we need to look briefly at what jewellery chains are made from.
Link Shapes
The links of most jewellery chains are either round or oval although, in theory at least, they could be any shape you like. The links of a box chain, for example, are square while a snake chain is so tight-linked that it appears as one continuous, sinuous thread with spiralling marks on it. The 'links' of a bead chain are straight pieces of wire (that may or may not be visible) joining the beads together.
Link Profiles
The links of a typical chain (i.e. ignoring box chains, snake chains and bead chains etc.) are made out of wire of various thickness. When most of us think of 'wire' we imagine something that, if we looked at the end of the wire, would appear circular in cross section. In the making of jewellery chains, of course, the cross section of the wire may be an oval, a half circle (complete with flat bottom), a half oval, a circle with flatten sides (as if someone had squeezed it in the jaws of a vice [vise]) or even a square.
Link Count
As its name implies, the link count of a chain is the number of links per centimetre. It takes more time and precious metal (and is thus more expensive) to make a centimetre of chain from four small links than from one large link of the same diameter wire. A similar comment can be made for bead chains where the number of beads per centimetre can significantly affect the price.
Link Combinations
There is, of course, no reason why a jewellery chain should consist of only one type of link. There are many chains that use multiple link types including odd shapes such as hearts. Any form of chain that is not one of the 'normal' types is generally referred to as a 'fancy' chain.
Popular Chain Types
Anchor
Based on the design of a ship's anchor chain. The defining feature of this chain is the bar in the middle of each link. The version shown here uses flattened links (as if squeezed in the jaws of a vice [vise].) A variant known as Maritime has only every other link an anchor link.
Bead
There is no reason why the beads must be circular. Sausage shaped beads are also reasonably common. Different sized beads and different shaped beads can be intermingled and the length between beads, or groups of beads, can be varied in a single chain to create patterns. Bead chains are fairly expensive because of the amount of precious metal required in their making.
Belcher
A primarily British style allegedly named after Jem Belcher, an 18th century boxer from Bristol, England. The definition of what actually constitutes a Belcher chain is, at best, vague but the common thread seems to be that the links are of equal size, are either round or oval and are either oval or half oval (like a flattened D lying on its back) in cross section.
Box
Appearing to be made from plate rather than wire, the rectangular shaped of the links are clearly the source of the chain's name. This is a reasonably expensive type of chain due to the amount of precious metal it uses. A Box chain may also be referred to as a Venetian chain.
Byzantine
At first glance, a Byzantine chain can appear to be somewhat like a tangled mess of interwoven wires! Look closer, however, and you'll see that there is a pattern to it all. This type of chain has a long history and at various times has been known as Idiot's Delight, King's Braid and Birdcage chain.
Cable
Cable chains emulate the style of the large steel chains used aboard ships, known as cables. They are usually quite chunky in appearance but lighter ones are available these days. The links are traditionally slightly oval in shape - but nothing is guaranteed!
Curb
The defining feature of a curb chain is that, when placed on a flat surface, the links lie flat. Curb chains have the greatest variety of widths of any jewellery chain ranging from just a few millimetres to a couple of centimetres. The larger variants are often used as men's neck chains or bracelets.
Figaro
Not really a style in its own right, but a very popular variant. A Figaro chain uses a pattern of short links (usually three) followed by a long link. This pattern is repeated for the length of the chain. The name is derived from the Italian opera 'The Marriage of Figaro' which was in vogue at the time this style of chain became popular.
Herringbone
The v-shaped links of this chain create the herringbone pattern from which the chain gets its name. Like the Curb chain, the links of a Herringbone chain will lie flat on a flat surface. This is the most 'fluid' of chain types and in it's thinner forms can even be plaited.
Mesh
A mesh chain is made up of links that appear to be a single mesh-like structure. These chains are usually somewhat wider than normal jewellery chains, often being five or more links wide. Mesh chains can be circular, as in our picture, or flat like a tape.
Omega
The shape of the links of an Omega chain are intended to resemble the feathers of a bird emanating from the central quill. An Omega chain will naturally fall in to a circle when placed around your neck, somewhat like a flexible collarette.
Prince of Wales
A Prince of Wales chain is like a double (or even triple) chain where the links are in pairs (or even threes). This gives the impression of a chain within a chain and can produce a very stylish look. Given the 'multiple links per link' approach of this type of chain, it is inherently strong but also inherently expensive.
Rolo
A Rolo chain is similar in concept to a cable chain except that it's links are somewhat fatter and are made from half round or half oval wire, with the links themselves usually being either circular or oval. The chunkier looks of the links, combined with the use of half round/oval wire, makes for a good trade-off between physical strength, the 'presence' of the chain and it's cost.
Rope
The twisted links of this chain resemble a rope and this is where it gets its name from. The links of a rope chain are not fully joined together and so it is possible that if one link fails, all the others might follow in succession! Hopefully, however, this would never happen in normal use.
Singapore
The links of a Singapore chain are joined in such a way that, even when laid out straight, the chain has a natural curve to it. This chain is normally only sold in finer diameters when, due to its natural shaping, it has a very 'fluid' look. A Singapore chain is sometimes called a 'twisted curb' chain.
Snake
So tight-linked that a Snake chain appears to be one long sinuous thread with spiral marking on it, it is clear that this chain get its name from its appearance. Snake chains are inherently strong and can range in diameter from a millimetre to being quite thick. They are an expensive chain since much time and precious metal is required for their manufacture.
Spiga
The links of this chain give the appearance of having been plaited. It is a very '3D' style of chain with great strength. It is, however, a reasonably expensive chain due to its complexity.
Trace
Often the simplest type of chain, but none the worse for that. Typically, circular wire is used in its manufacture and the links are very slightly oval. This type of chain can be made very fine for the more delicate pendants.
Wheat
Made from interwoven teardrop shaped links, all aligned in the same direction, this chain has a similarity to an ear of wheat. The shape of the links means that their joints act as small hinges, which means that this type of chain is not quite as flexible as some other types. What it loses in flexibility, however, it makes up for in 'presence'.
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