Kantanagar Temple

Kantanagar Temple

Kantanagar Temple

Set in the graceful heart of gorgeous countryside, the rouge sandcastle of Kantanagar Temple (admission Tk 10; 7.30am-5.30pm) is a stunning block of religious artwork, and is surely one of the most impressive Hindu monuments in Bangladesh.

Built in 1752 by Pran Nath, a renowned maharaja from Dinajpur, it is the country's finest example of brick and terracotta style. Its most remarkable feature, typical of late-Mughalera temples, is its superb surface decoration, with infinite panels of sculpted terracotta plaques depicting both figural and floral motifs.

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Kantanagar Temple

The folk artists did not lack imagination or sense of humour. One demon is depicted swallowing monkeys, which promptly reappear from his ear. Other scenes are more domestic, such as a wife massaging her husband's legs and a lady combing lice from another's hair. Amorous scenes are often placed in obscure corners. These intricate, harmonious scenes are like a richly embroidered carpet.

This 15-sq-metre, three-storey edifice was originally crowned with nine ornamental two-storey towers, which collapsed during the great earthquake of 1897 and were never replaced. The building sits in a courtyard surrounded by offices and pilgrims' quarters (now occupied by several Hindu families), all protected by a stout wall. Visitors can no longer go inside the temple, which houses a Krishna shrine, but the intricate detail of its exterior will keep you engaged. A popular Hindu festival takes place here each November and would certainly be a colourful time to pop by.

Almost as much of an attraction is the utter peace and tranquillity of the site; after you've finished fawning over the temple take a stroll through the fields down to the nearby river. In the dry season the sandbanks exposed by the dropping water levels make a handy cricket pitch for local children.

It might be possible to stay at the CDA training centre at Proshikhan Kendra, 3km from the temple in the village of Mukundupur. It's a large complex and all rooms have an attached bathroom. Food is also available.

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