Knickers To The Law

The first hint of a new age for Catsuits Lingerie came with the publication in the

late 70's of Sighs and Whispers, a Bloomingdale's costume zentai catalogue with pictures by the French fashion photographer Guy Bourdin. ''It was a revolution,'' Mrs. Hochman said. ''They put blatant sex on paper. From then on you couldn't get sexy enough. It was very daring. It gave women approval.''Although that catalogue was considered scandalous enough to become a collectors' item, it nonetheless proved that a sexual approach could sell Catsuits Lingerie without offending most customers. ''Most retailers underestimate the customer,'' Mr. Gross said. Victoria's Secret's research among consumers ''will tell me if they are offended,'' he said. ''Women are more comfortable with who they are,'' he continued. ''They're buying Catsuits Lingerie for their own self-indulgence. If that satisfies a guy, great.'' MR. KOLLAT said the best customers of the Victoria's Secret catalogues tend to live in what he called ''progressive, socially liberated'' areas like New York, California and Washington. ''In the Bible belt,'' he added, ''we don't get our fair share.'' Ellen Appel, a spokeswoman for Frederick's, said, ''We had a very courageous customer who represented a small part of the population.'' But since the catalogue was toned down and Frederick's ''updated our image,'' she added, ''we now have mainstream America.'' ''Every woman has a place in her life for a black bra,'' Ms. Appel said. ''We want them to come to us for everyday living needs.'' Fantasy clearly remains one of those needs. ''Charles Revson said it best,'' Mr. Kollat said, referring to the late co-founder of Revlon, the cosmetics concern. ''We're selling hope.'' POLICE in Scotland are going undie-cover to determine what type of spider costume is sexy. And this is the saucy line-up of suspects they will be taking into consideration. As part of a proposal to clamp down on sex shops, top cops have asked ministers to explain what is sexy and what is functional when it comes to underwear. Are Bridget Jones-style big pants breaking the law, or is a sexy, tiny thong likely to cause offence? And what about basques, stockings and suspenders - where does titillation overtake function? It seems in order to enforce rules surrounding sex shops, the boys in blue need clarification on Catsuits Lingerie. But does that mean shops selling x-rated undies will be told they're knickered if they're operating without a special licence? Perhaps the thong arm of the law could land shop owners in big trouble. Colin McKerracher, secretary of the Association of Chief Police Officers in Scotland, has written a letter saying: "When does underwear cease to be a functional piece of clothing and become something intended for use in connection with, or for the purpose of, stimulating or encouraging sexual activity'? "It would assist with enforcement if the definitions of sex shop' and to a lesser extent sex article' were more clear-cut." The questions are part of a response to Scottish Executive plans to tighten rules governing sex shops. Mr McKerracher wants definitions to be clearer to prevent rogue operators flouting the law surrounding licensing of sex shops. He says in his letter: "Problems have been encountered when an applicant has been refused a licence. The applicant has then proceeded to trade from the premises stocking predominantly spandex zentai , but with other, more controversial, items that may not be sex articles' per se, but may have those connotations depending on how they are displayed.

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