Learning The Basics Of Surfing

Picking the right area to begin surfing can greatly aid the learning process

. A quiet, uncrowded beach with easy breaking waves, about 3 feet in height, is an ideal place to start.

Paddling a surfboard is an important skill that requires plenty of practice. Walk out with the board until waist-deep in the water then lie on the deck, keeping the weight centred in the middle of the board. Commence paddling, using a front crawl stroke with the arms, cupping the hands to make each stroke most effective. The idea is to determine the board position that offers minimal resistance. When the board begins to move smoothly through the water, the ideal trim position has been identified. Make a mental note of the relative positions of body and board, since remembering them will greatly ease future paddling.

Many novices experience difficulties with continual battering from breaking waves when paddling out. This can be avoided by using a technique known as "duck diving." As the breaking wave approaches, firmly grip both edges of the board (rails) about halfway between its nose and midpoint. Transfer all the upper body weight onto the hands/ arms until the board tip begins to dip under the water, pointing the head down and allow the body to follow. Once below the water surface, bend the knee of the front leg and use it to propel the board tail under the wave. Forward momentum means that only a short period is spent underwater. When the wave has passed, allow the board's buoyancy to lift it back to the surface.

How to Stand Up

Few things match the look of an experienced surfer riding a surfboard and the process of standing up on a board looks to be a straightforward process to the uninitiated. However, once the fact that the surfboard is on a pitching, rolling, surge of churning water is taken into consideration, it becomes clear that is anything but easy. The process of standing requires a leap from the prone position, while simultaneously repositioning the weight in all directions merely to remain in an upright position. It soon becomes apparent that a great deal of practice is required.

The beach is an ideal place to practice. The "pop-up" motion from prone to standing is accomplished via a quick push through the feet. Place the board on the sand (avoiding damage to the fins), lie on it and do a press-up. When the arms are fully extended, pull both knees towards the stomach and hop onto the feet. Regular practice will make this combination of movements second nature once in the water.

In the water, paddle for a wave and the moment to attempt standing is as the board's momentum exceeds the paddling speed. Firmly grasp both rails, pushing up quickly, fully extending the arms and pulling the knees towards the chest. Plant the feet firmly, the leading foot just in front of the midpoint and the other near the tail. Maintain a low centre of gravity by crouching down, endeavouring to focus the body weight over the midpoint of the board. Keep the eyes looking straight ahead and leave the arms extended to help with balance.

by: Simply Group

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