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Marquise Engagement Rings And Other Fancy Cuts

When looking for your ideal engagement ring, wedding rings or eternity ring you may

come across the term fancy cut but what does this term mean and how does it affect your choice?

The fancy cuts are effectively those gemstone cuts which are believed to have an unusual outline, and can of course as a result make a lovely and unusual choice for your wedding rings or engagement ring. The traditionally recognised fancy cuts include the marquise, pear, oval and emerald cuts. Most fancy cuts are actually considered to be modifications on your more traditional cuts that are in existence. As a result the fancy cut gemstone in engagement rings are usually classed as; modified brilliant cut, step cut, mixed cut or rose cuts. Today there are also a number of other cuts that are becoming write popular such as hearts, triangles and cushions. At Harriet Kelsall Jewellery design we have dealt with cuts from the traditional brilliant cut to a whole variety of very unusual fancy cuts such as honeycomb, laser, kite and pie to name just a few. There so many amazing options you could even have a gemstone shaped like a butterfly or star, and new cuts are continually being designed! Of course today this isnt the end, if you are really struggling to find the right gemstone in the right cut you could see if you can have your chosen gemstone cut to order especially for you the choices are endless! Dont forget though that you cannot cut every type of gemstone into any cut, and sadly practicality can get in the way e.g. some gemstones maybe limited to particular types of cuts due to the internal structuring of the gemstone. If you are hoping for something really unique dont forget that you could also consider having a gemstone carved with some kind of a design or even have it in the style of an intaglio or cameo. Below is a breakdown of some of the majorly recognised fancy cuts that you could choose from for your wedding jewellery.

Marquise Cut

This is also known as the Navette cut, which is French for little boat as it resembles the appearance of a boats hull with two curved sides leading to a point at each end of the gemstone. It is believed to be the fourth most popular shape after round, princess and oval and is categorised as a modified brilliant cut. They are a very popular and traditional choice; even Catherine Zeta-Jones has an antique marquise diamond engagement ring! If this lovely emstone floats your boat be sure to choose a design which protects the points as these can become vulnerable if left exposed. This can be notoriously difficult to cut and requires the skill of someone very experienced in lapidary.


Pear Cut

This is also known as the Tear Drop due to its shape which has one rounded end and one pointed. It is known as an intermediary or hybrid of the brilliant and marquise cut, this is of course categorised as a modified brilliant cut. The rounded area glitters the most as it is difficult for the light to reflect into the point, just as with a marquise cut diamond. The depth of the stone can have a significant effect upon the appearance of the gemstone so be sure to take care when choosing a stone for your engagement ring and you could wind up with a truly remarkable gemstone!

Oval Cut


This is an elliptically shaped cut which is a modification on the traditional brilliant cut. If cut well it can rival a brilliant cut in terms of brightness. It was invented by Lazare Kaplan in the 1960s and typically has 56 facets.

Trilliant / Trillion / Triangle Cuts

If you are looking for a gemstone with a triangular shape it can get a little confusing as there are interchangeable terms of these cuts. Each of these cuts share in one major feature in that they all have a triangular outline. The nature of each of these cuts does differ however; most significantly the triangle cut is considered a modified step cut and had a distinct appearance as it is based on the features of a step cut gemstone, whereas the trillion or trilliant is considered a modified brilliant cut. These cuts can have very straight or bowed sides to give you some further choice. They usually have between 31-50 facets and can look lovely in solitaire mountain styled designs!

by: Theodora Marshall
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