Moving Your Aquarium
Moving Your Aquarium
Moving Your Aquarium
Moving home is always a stressful experience and the thought of moving your
aquarium can be daunting.
However, this can be eased with a little forethought and planning.
Since moving an aquarium is not a simple task, if possible set aside a separate day. Doing it while the rest of your
possessions are being moved is not the ideal circumstance.
Equipment
Before you start, make sure you have the following apparatus to hand:
Containers
Water containers
Dcor containers
Polystyrene fish transporting boxes
Fish bags & rubber bands
Plastic buckets
Equipment:
Nets (at least two)
Plastic scoop or measuring jug
Battery-powered air pump
Test Kits
De-chlorinator
Length of hose
Miscellaneous:
Bubble wrap
Old blankets or towels
Timetable
Day before: Do not feed the fish
Switch off heaters and allow to cool (approximately 30 minutes).
Remove tank dcor. Some small fish may hide in the ornaments. As you raise them to the surface the fish should slip out
and swim away. If they stubbornly stay ensconced, place the ornament in a fish bag with some aquarium water
and seal it with a rubber band.
Stack
dcor in the containers. If you have a lot of rocks, make sure the containers are not overloaded.
Siphon off about three-quarters of the water in the tank into your storage containers.
Prepare your fish bags by filling them one third full with aquarium water.
Catch your fish and transfer them to the fish bags, sealing them with rubber bands.
The majority of fish are best bagged singly. This avoids any potential damage and aggression.
However, some of the tropical tetras and live-bearing species can be bagged in groups.
It is easier to catch fish using two nets; one to herd them into the other. When moving the net, keep your hand over the
opening to avoid the fish jumping out.
For extra safety, you can double bag your fish. This involves placing the sealed fish bag inside another bag which is
also sealed with a rubber band. This technique also provides additional insulation.
Remove any aquatic plants and seal them into fish bags.
Remove and pack the rest of your equipment. Wrap heaters in bubble wrap carefully to prevent breakage.
The filter should be kept damp to preserve bacteria.
An ideal way to transport the filter medium is in a fish bag partially filled with aquarium water. Long journeys may
necessitate the use of a battery-powered air pump to keep the filter media oxygenated.
Drain the remaining water into the containers.
Scoop the sand, gravel or any other substrate into plastic buckets. A plastic measuring jug is an ideal implement.
Pack everything into your vehicle. Use the bubble-wrap, old towels or blankets to cushion the aquarium.
Make sure everything is firmly secured and cannot move in transit.
At your new home
Unpack the aquarium and place it in position.
Scoop the sand or gravel back into the tank.
Pour the water you have saved back into the aquarium.
Unpack your heaters, pumps and filters and re-assemble your set up.
Switch them on and check they are functioning correctly.
Replace a few items of your dcor or a small number of plants.
You can replace the rest when the aquarium has become more established.
Replace your fish as if you had just bought them. Open the bags and float them on the surface for about
three-quarters of an hour. Add a little aquarium water every 10 to 15 minutes. Gently release the fish into the tank.
During this time and for a few hours afterwards, switch the lights off to avoid distressing the fish.
Top up the tank with de-chlorinated water.
Over the next few weeks, monitor the water quality e.g. the ammonia and nitrite levels.
Feed the fish sparingly, every other day.
These guidelines will help reduce the trauma of moving your aquarium, but if you need any help and advice, please contact
Fish-Fish-Fish.
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