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Palace of Earthly Tranquility

Palace of Earthly Tranquility

Palace of Earthly Tranquility

It continued to bear this name during the Qing, though in fact the empresses did not stay here. In the Qing dynasty, the Palace of Earthly Tranquility was rebuilt so that its entrance stood at the east end of the south side of the hall rather than in the center, as was the general rule in the Forbidden City. This feature, and the presence of heated beds (kang) inside, can be explained by the fact that during the Qing dynasty the palace was used as a shrine for private Manchu shamanistic practices. There was a daily ritual sacrifice to some 15 gods, including Sakyamuni Buddha and a number of Mongolian deities. Four pigs were offered in sacrifice each day, while at major rituals in the spring and autumn personally attended by the emperor and empress, 39 swine went up in smoke. Several of the Qing emperors and empresses lodged in the east "heated chamber" attached to this hall on their three- day honeymoon. The buildings behind the hall to the north housed the imperial medical clinic and pharmacy.

In the northeastern corner of the courtyard, behind the Palace of Earthly Tranquility, is a small display of European and Chinese toys from the 18th and 19th centuries. It should not be missed.

Passing north through the Gate of Earthly Tranquility (Kunming Men) we come to the Imperial Garden (Yuhua Yuan), parts of which date back to the Ming. This garden was only one of the many retreats the emperors had at their disposal in Peking, but in spite of its proximity they tended to spend less time here than in the vast grounds of the garden palaces at Zhongnanhai, the western suburbs (in the Yuanming Yuan, Yihe Yuan and Yuquan Shan) and Chengde (formerly Jehol or Rehe, home to the Mountain Retreat for Avoiding Heat). In this palace garden a vast array of disparate architectural elements is crowded into a small space, yet it still gives the impression of spaciousness compared to the more claustrophobic nearby residential courtyards.

The paths are decorated with charming mosaic designs of auspicious plants and animals. The rockery hill in the north part of the garden dates from the Ming Wanli period. The emperor and his consorts would climb to the top of this man-made mountain on several occasions during the year: when the paths of the constellations called the Herding Boy and Weaving Girl crossed in the heavens for their annual assignation; on the Mid-autumn Festival to gain a fine view of the full moon; and on the ninth day of the ninth month, the Double-Ninth Festival, when it was customary to climb to a high place (denggao). These occasions were also celebrated by the general populace. Reginald Johnston, Puyi's English-language teacher, lived for a time in an apartment in the southwest section of this garden, now a small shop.

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