Pepper The Cinderella Of The Cupboard
Pepper is an unappreciated spice
Pepper is an unappreciated spice. It is always there. It is called for in nearly every savory recipe, and some sweets think Pfeffernusse. Freshly ground pepper is called for everywhere in recipes, rather like Cinderella, Cinderella It is expected to be in its place, doing what it does best, but completely under appreciated. How many of you really taste pepper? Can you identify the different types and varieties? How many kinds of pepper can you name? Are they all pepper?
Pepper can be very exciting, and the nuances of the different types can make huge differences in the outcome of a dish. Very high quality Tellicherry peppercorns have a distinctly floral flavor with pungency and bite. Store bought ground pepper tastes noting at all like a freshly ground high quality Malabar or Tellicherry. But what are these names, you ask?
Black pepper comes from the plant Piper nigrum. The highest quality black pepper is Tellicherry. Because the berries have been allowed to ripen on the plant before picking, it ensures the most flavor and the largest berries. The berries ferment in the sun for a few days as they dry. Malabar peppercorns are just slightly less ripe when picked, have very full flavor also, and are slightly smaller. White and green peppercorns are the same berries. Green peppercorns are picked before they ripen and dried. Sometimes they are packed in brine, and when added to a dish, give a delicious burst of peppery goodness and gentle heat. These are lovely in creamed sauces. Green peppercorns have a distinct flavor, but lighter. White peppercorns are just black peppercorns soaked in water until their outer shell can be rubbed off, and then allowed to dry. The flavor of pepper is obvious, but more delicately subtle. As it is white, it is the perfect addition to dishes like Chicken and Dumplings, where the black pepper would mar the look of the finished product. It is also good for dishes where the flavor of pepper is desirable, but could easily overpower if using the black peppercorns. In recent years another method for processing white peppercorns has arisen. Sarawak white peppercorns are kept under running water until the skins peel off and the final product is a cleaner, whiter peppercorn.
Pre-ground pepper, the ugly step-sister, bears no resemblance to good peppercorns. As with all spices, pepper should be kept whole until needed, and ground just for the recipe. I have not had pre-ground pepper in my kitchen for more than 25 years. Once I discovered the differences in flavor, I could never go back. Over time, I have invested in various peppermills. One (a Turkish brass coffee grinder) grinds pepper very fine. I use this for grinding into a dish being cooked. Another mill is set to grind coarsely, and used for cracking pepper over food at the table. Another mill holds only white peppercorns. Yet another holds a mixture of white, green and pink, which is an excellent combination for chicken, pork or fish.
But wait, you ask, What about pink peppercorns? These are not pepper at all, but come from a shrub, Schinus molle. Because they look like pepper berries, and have a peppery flavor, they are added to gourmet pepper mixtures. They are aromatic, rather than pungent. Other species of pepper, such as Long Pepper piper longum and Cubeb Pepper piper cubeba, have differing nuances of flavor. Long pepper is hotter than black peppercorns, with a tiny hint of cinnamon; it is wonderful left whole in stews for long cooking. Cubeb pepper, also called Tailed Pepper, is almost a cross between pepper and allspice in flavor.
Bring Cinderella to the ball, at last. Find high quality peppercorns and grind them yourself. You will not be sorry.
by: Chris Rawstern
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