Plumbing Guide - Fitting A Bidet And An Outside Tap

Over-rim supply bidets are really only low-level wash basins and they are plumbed in exactly the same way

. In most cases, this means taking branch pipes from the pipes which supply the other pieces of bathroom equipment. If the pipes are 22mm, use 22mm to 15mm reducing tees to make the branch. Before starting work turn the water off and drain the system as necessary.

Screw the bidet to the floor using brass screws special ones that take a covering cap which conceals the screw can be bought. Use washers and tighten gently to ensure the bidet is not cracked. If a basin mixer is used instead of separate taps, then both hot and cold supplies must come from the cold water cistern, or a divided-flow mixer must be used.

Special mixer taps ( typically one-hole ) are made for bidets where the outlet nozzle is alterable. Many of those will be fitted with a popup waste.

The waste outlet from a bidet is formed up in the same way as for a sink - employ a slotted waste sealed with plumbing mastic with a trap attached to it. In a two-pipe waste system, it can be fed into a hopper head instead of attached to the WCs soil stack.

For bidets with rising sprays ( which should include just about all through-rim types ), the plumbing wants are way more complex. This kind of bidet can't be connected where the cold supply in the house is direct - and even in an indirect system, it should be fed by its own separate pipe from the cold water cistern which feeds nothing else, except maybe a WC cistern. The hot supply for a bidet with a rising spray can be supplied in one of 2 ways : either from a separate hot water cylinder supplying only the bidet or as a new supply pipe from the hot water cylinder provided this pipe is fitted with a check valve upstream of an extra vent pipe.

An alternative way of connecting an ascending-spray bidet is to take the link from the cold water cistern and hot water cylinder in the ordinary way, but to take them to a new cistern or to a 'tun-dish ' where they are mixed before going to the bidet.

You should inform your local water supply undertaking before you install a bidet.

Fitting an outside tap It is really handy to have a tap outside -to which a hosepipe can be connected or which can often be used for filling watering cans. So as to provide the type of pressure required for a hosepipe, this tap will pretty much certainly need to be attached to the rising main which, under the new water by-laws, will mean fitting a double check valve in the branch pipe as well as a stopvaive - the check valve is fitted between the stopvaive and the tap. Installing an exterior tap is another job where you should inform your local water supply enterprise.

The most straightforward strategy of connecting an exterior tap is to fit a compression lee into the rising main ( or into the branch serving the kitchen tap ), to that the stopvaive and double check valve are then fitted, after which a pipe is taken through a hole drilled in the outside wall to the tap -using flexible plastic or hand-bendable copper pipe will be most simple. There are 2 ways of running the pipe : cither it can pass thru the wall and down to the tap ( so the tap are often used to drain the pipe in winter with the stopvaive closed ) or it can pass through the wall and up to the tap, in which particular case a drainvalve should be fitted where the pipe turns upwards. It is a very good idea to station the tap over a gully, and it should be high enough off the ground for buckets and watering cans to be fitted beneath.

Brass or plastic bib taps are the best type to use outside : the tap itself is fitted to a wallplate elbow screwed to the wall of the house. You might need to add or take away washers to get the tap upright.

by: Ralph Bensen

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