Quibbling Over Jewelry Making Terms Or Maybe Not
The terms beading and pearl and bead stringing are often used interchangeably although they do refer to different skills within the jewelry trade
. People for example will refer to a beaded necklace when the necklace really consists of gemstone beads strung on thread. Beaded jewelry, in another example, can refer to both beading and pearl and bead stringing.
In a sense this is quibbling, but in a real sense it is not.
Beading refers to work that is accomplished by using small, usually 2 mm seed beads. The seed beads are usually made of glass and sometimes enhanced to show specific effects such as a metallic effect or an iridescent effect. Because of their size, it usually takes hundreds, if not thousands of seed beads to complete a piece of jewelry. With 2 mm seed beads, for example, the beader needs 21 beads to complete an inch of jewelry.
Beading is accomplished by using certain stitches including the peyote stitch, herringbone stitch and brick stitch, among others
.
Beading has grown enormously in popularity over the last couple of decades. At its best, beaded work transcends the realm of hobby and can be highly designed, sometimes figurative and often dimensional.
Pearl and bead stringing on the other hand uses thread and wire to string together beads, usually gemstones to complete a piece of jewelry. The gemstones are secured by knots. These skills are typified by a pearl necklace which is knotted between the beads and attached to the clasp with thread.
Pearl and bead stringers often work with gemstones as opposed to seed beads, although some use seed beads as decorative elements in their work.
Like beading, pearl and bead stringing work can be highly designed and often dimensional. However, it does not lend itself to representation.
There is one major difference between pearl and bead stringing and beading which is not usually perceived by the public. That is that the best beaded work can consume huge amounts of time, hours upon hours to complete. Pearl and bead stringers do not usually commit that much time to their jewelry.
This enormous time commitment has led to an under-appreciation of the artistry that can characterize beaded work. Thats because many beaders, unable to price their jewelry competitively, withdraw it from the market. As a result, it isnt seen.
Both pearl and bead stringers and beaders obviously want to be compensated for their work. In developing prices for jewelry, these jewelers often develop a formula that captures the cost of materials and labor. Unfortunately, unless the beader is very well known, it is usually very difficult to recover the cost of labor. This is also complicated by the fact that Chinese workers produce beaded work that can sell for as little as ten dollars.
Because they cannot recover the cost of labor, many beaders dont compete in the forums where the public, specifically the art and craft buying public, would see their work. This includes galleries, museums and upscale retailers.
In one sense its not important to know the correct terms describing the techniques used in the work of beaders or pearl and bead stringers. For the consumer, the only real question is whether the work is beautiful.
by: Fleury Sommers
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