Initially surfing in a wave were founded a Captain named Caption Cook
. And then Caption observed how an islander was riding the surfboard merely for enjoying himself. It is unknown that original settlers were departed from New Zealand and had moved across the west so surfing might have originated from the Maoris, one recently discovered tribe in the Samoa's having had no previous contacts with the outside world showed his abilities in surfing.
Later then onwards Surfing became a game of royalty, riding along with waves of ocean while taking help of a surfboard. Surfing used to be the integral part of Hawaiian culture. Aliis ruled prominently the Hawaiian society. Sit in authority meant He let the world showed of the skills of surfing. The only difference between these two was that Aliis and the commoners were, the surfboards they used. Ancient surf boards of Polynesia used to be made of solid wood and used to be difficult for daily usage and in long periods; they would absorb ocean-water after many hours of use, and would gain even more weight. Those ancient surfboards didnt have fins so that it didnt allow for very accented maneuvers, though it was possible to pull a few curves by dragging one foot in the water next to the surf board which used to be a standard technique in those times.
The Olo boards used to be reserved for the royalty and have their ranges in between 14 to 18 feet. Different woods used for the different shaped surfboard according to the skills of their own from surfboard to surfboard.
As the game of surfing became popular among the kings and royalties, the skill became important for riding boards.
Even nowadays, the length of the board is still an important part .As you still prefer long boards for intense waves. Shaping a board used to be a time consuming process, Prayers were given before cutting the trees.