The Balanchine Tutus Designed By Barbara Karinska (Varvara Jmoudsky)

The Balanchine Tutus Designed By Barbara Karinska (Varvara Jmoudsky)

Russian costume designer Barbara Karinska is the creator of some of the world's most beautiful tutus .A tutu can be an instrument of visual splendor providing aesthetic pleasure for the audience and confidence in the ballerina when dancing. The choice of costumes for ballet is a fundamental issue to the success of any performance. A tutu should capture the essence of the ballet, enhancing and reflecting the beauty of the dancer. The definition of a tutu is wide and grows wider as new materials are used by a modern generation of tutu designers. The modern concept of a tutu is the one defined and made by Barbara Karinska and Balanchine. He created the famous phrase "the tutu is like a breath of dust." This is not how modern tutu designers see the tutu however.Before the Karinska Balanchine tutu was first designed the tutu was a simple affair. These can be seen in the tutus of Degas featured in his paintings. These were stiffer and more rigid than the Karinska tutu design.Barbara Karinska began life as a Russian embroiderer. This was a very important art form in Russia and was the profession of Karinska. Karinska opened an embroidery school in Moscow and taught the art of embroidering pillows, napkins, bags, table cloths. Her creations were so sophisticated and unique that she became famous as a designer in embroidery, Her business flourished and she created a hat shop and dress shop. Karinska's reputation meant she was offered the position of the Commissar of Museums in Moscow. With the permission of the Bolshevik government she was allowed to travel to Brussels to visit her father. She decided not to return to Russia and went to Paris find work where she found a job as a seamstress and thanks to her talents and skills became sought after. In Paris a new ballet company called Ballet Russes de Monte Carlo was performing. Karinska was asked to help make costumes for Balanchine's first ballet entitled" Cotillion. "Christian Berard the designer and photographer provided the designs and idea of what Balanchine wanted for the new ballet but it would Karinska who presented and created the concepts created by Berard, modifying them and selecting fabrics. Karinska together with Balanchine and Berard scrutinize every ballet and created their unique costumes. Over time this would be left solely to Karinska. She became know in Paris as the only representative of the creation of costumes for ballet. Such was their success that Berard photographed various designs for the now famous fashion magazine Vogue. In 1932 after opening her shop in Paris, Karinska dressed six of Balanchine's ballets before moving to New York.In 1936 Karinska designed the costumes for the ballet "Seasons" that would be presented by the Ballet Russes at Covent Garden in London where she opened another clothing and embroidery store. In New York, Balanchine founded the School of American Ballet with Lincoln Kirstein and created the American Ballet Company. In 1940, Karinska opens a shop in New York.The pancake tutu Balanchine's favorite, was used frequently in his ballet and costume design. With a large number of dancers on stage the traditional "pancake" tutu with its stiff wired layer would bob and dip when the dancers' skirts brushed up against one another. This bobbing and dipping would reverberate long after the steps were complete. Karinska solved this problem by devising the "powder puff" tutu, with a shorter skirt made of six or seven layers of gathered net, each layer a half inch longer than the preceding layer. The layers were tacked together for a fluffier, looser appearance than the stiff "pancake" tutu. Because the shorter layers are self-supporting, no wire hoop is needed in the "powder puff" tutu designed by Balanchine and Barbara Karinska.

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