The Cullin Ridge, Skye: Hints And Tips
The words above may read familiar to those who have attempted the Cuillin traverse
. 12km long, 3000m of ascent, 11 Munros (peaks over 914m or 3000ft), over 30 summits and technical rock climbing up to Very Difficult (if the easiest line is taken) makes the Cuillin ridge traverse the most challenging mountaineering journey in the United Kingdom.
Leslie Shabolt and Alastair McLaren completed the first continuous traverse of the Cuillin ridge on The 10th June 1911. They made the journey from south to north in a day, having taken a little over 12 hours between Gars-bheinn and Sgurr nan Gillean. A very impressive time even by today's standards. They were old Skye campaigners with many first ascents on the Cuillin so undoubtedly used their local knowledge.
The Cuillin is steeped in mountaineering history. Many famous pioneers' names bounce around the corrie walls. Even Bonnie Prince Charlie and his escorts would have walked in the shadow of the Cuillin, floundering through the bogs heading for Elgol to get a boat to the mainland and eventually France!
Preparing for the traverse
Physically fit!
Ask yourself: are you fit enough? Going to the gym to jump on the treadmill once a week is not going to do it. To be successful you have to be feeling 100% on top of your game and performing at your fighting weight. To get fit for something of this scale requires careful planning and preparation. You need to do this yourself, as I am not going to drop a full training programme on your lap. However, some things to include in your programme would be endurance, endurance and have I mentioned endurance?
Top tips would include getting used to wearing a medium weight rucksack (as you may be carrying some bivi kit) on scrambling terrain. The pack needs to be close fitting but offer freedom of movement so you can lift your head up and won't be restricted even with a helmet on. Make sure you get your feet used to wearing your scrambling boots all day in potentially warm temperatures: basically break your feet in. To save your fingertips on the sharp Cuillin gabbro, purchase a cheap pair of canvas gardening gloves as this will save you hours of either taping up or blowing on your fingers in the evening.
Mentally fit!
You need to prepare body and mind for complete and utter full body exhaustion. If you have ever taken part in any kind of marathon or endurance event then you're well on your way to understanding what to expect. As there is so much ascent and descent involved it can get hugely demoralising and time seems to quickly fall by if you are on a technical section that requires rope work.
When on the traverse, break it down into sections. For example when I do it north to south I break it down to three sections. Sgurr nan Gillean to Bruach na Frithe, from Bruach na Frithe to the Inaccessible Pinnacle, then from here to Gars Bheinn. Let the clock tick for a whole section rather than an individual peak or crux section. It all evens out in the end!
Technically fit!
What I mean by this is two fold. One: you need to have a high level of personal competence in climbing and scrambling.
Two: you need to have good knowledge and be well practised in rope skills required for rock climbing.
The technical standard of the climbing on the ridge is never more than Very Difficult, but since most of the ridge is sustained and exposed scrambling with extensive sections of Moderate and Difficult climbing, it is certainly wise to be able to lead Severe so that most parts of the ridge can then be comfortably soloed. Indeed to be successful on a traverse you need to be happy at soloing around 95% of the ridge. As soon as a rope is deployed, time is lost. What could take five minutes to solo may take up to an hour when using rock climbing equipment and ropes. You need to be happy moving over moderately technical terrain wearing scrambling boots and a rucksack. Forget the rock shoes, it is big boots all the way.
It is essential that you have the skill and knowledge to construct sounds belays, be able to lead climb whilst placing sound runners and have the ability to abseil and retrieve the rope. You do not need a huge amount of climbing equipment, as many of the crux sections are fairly short and sharp, with the longer climbing sections requiring a cool head with fewer runners.
by: The Outdoor Shop
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