The Sport Of Surfing - A History

Surfing is something many people enjoy

Surfing is something many people enjoy. Anywhere there's an ocean you are likely to see at least one or two people out there catching some waves, or at least trying to. It's not only a popular way of having some fun, it can also be a very lucrative sport. There are competitions held around the world, where contestants are able to win trophies, thousands of dollars, and a title.

The oceans of Hawaii were most likely the first to see people riding the surf. What a sight it must have been for the first foreigners seeing these surfers sliding along the top and down the sides of giant waves, perched upon their long boards.

For the ancient natives of Hawaii long ago, riding the waves was, and still remains, an art and the sport of kings. Because the vast oceans are considered sacred to many of these venerable folks, there were formal ceremonies regarding the making and using of the surfboard. The kings and their court were given the right to ride the large boards which weighed less than the smaller heavier boards that the lower caste was allowed to ride.

The strength of the certain kings was able to overcome attempts by white missionaries to have this sport banished for good. When great numbers of foreigners began appearing, they also had a negative effect on the culture, but in the end, no one could stop the Hawaiians from riding their boards.

In the early 1900's, a swimmer and surfer named Duke Kahanamoku started travelling around the world giving swimming presentations. He also used this time to familiarize the rest of the world to the sport of surfing. There is a statue of this wave riding pioneer that still stands today on Waikiki Beach on the island of Oahu.

In the winter on the island the weather never really gets cold, but it does rain a lot. The waves during those months are much bigger than they ever are in any other season. This is the season when surfing competitions take place. There are contests at various beaches, but Pipeline draws the greatest number of people due to the difficulty of riding waves there. Not only is it difficult to ride waves there, it can also be one of the most dangerous. The possibility of losing your life there is very real.

After putting in your time and taking your lumps learning how to ride a surfboard, it might be something you feel you were born to do. It may seem like forever, but when you have finally conquered gravity and have managed to stay on your board, it might be hard to ignore the waves from then on. If your travels take you near a beach, looking for a local surfing rental shop might just be the highest thing on your priorities for the day.

The Sport Of Surfing - A History

By: Rebecca McKeich

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