The absolute basics to successfully breed four different types of the most popular pet birds. Part 2

The absolute basics to successfully breed four different types of the most popular pet birds

. Part 2

I suggest two clutches of young will be fine, certainly no more than three; your birds will need a good long rest before starting again the following season.

If you house your birds in an exposed and unheated aviary then be sure to remove nest boxes during the winter months to hopefully prevent your birds from breeding, the young chicks are most likely not to survive freezing temperatures. So in these circumstances only allow your birds to breed during the warmer months from Spring to Autumn (Fall) when there is less risk from frost, and try to only permit them to raise two clutches of young as they themselves need to build up their fat reserves and get ready for winter.

Even out of the breeding season you may find eggs that have been laid for example; in food containers, on the floor of the cage or aviary, on feeding platforms etc, you must remove these unwanted eggs and dispose of them correctly, and only allow your birds to breed when you want them to. This may seem a little harsh but it isn't and your birds will not hold a grudge against you for it.

In their natural environment zebra and Bengalese finches will build an open nest in the canopy of trees, whereas parrot-like species (parakeets, budgies, cockatiels) will build their nests in hollow tree trunks. If you can simulate these conditions then you're part way there. If you have the space, such as a large aviary then put out more nest boxes than is actually required and allow your birds to choose their own, then once chosen you should remove any unused ones. Some birds however, after raising one clutch may prefer to raise the next clutch in another nest box so offer them this option. Place all your boxes high up at the same height, birds prefer to be as high as possible to nest.

Ready-made nest boxes are widely available in pet shops, feed suppliers, garden centres etc. Shop around for the best deal or get some crafts person to make them for you. I pay on average 2 for a finch nest box, 3 for a budgie nest box, 5 or more for a cockatiel/parakeet nest box. Prices vary considerably from lowest prices similar to those mentioned up to much more. Please note that parakeet and budgie nest boxes are more suitable if the base has a conclave area to stop the eggs rolling about. Of course you could make your own but the cost wouldn't be any less than buying ready-made once you've took account of the price of materials and time it takes to make. If however you fancy a bit of D.I.Y. then use good quality untreated exterior plywood (min 6mm thick) or good quality untreated timber. Glue all your pieces together with strong non-toxic glue and staple or tack them together also for added strength.

Use the dimensions given below as a guide:

Cockatiel/parakeet; upright box with conclave & removable or hinged lid for inspection. Approx 12 inch (30 cm) high, 8-9 inch (20-22.5 cm) wide, 8-9 inch (20-22.5 cm) deep, with a round entrance hole approx 2-2 inch (5-6.25cm) diameter on the front and close to the top, with a perch on the outside below the hole. I also recommend attaching some aviary mesh on the inside front of the nest box below the entrance hole for your bird to use as a ladder' rather than falling or jumping onto eggs or chicks that may be in the bottom.

Budgie; horizontal nest boxes of approx 9 inch (22.5 cm) long, 6 inch (15 cm) wide, 6 inch (15 cm) deep, with a conclave part on the base, and a round entrance hole of approximately 2 inch (5 cm) diameter on the front top corner with a perch below are the most popular but a vertical nest box of similar dimensions also works well. Attach aviary mesh below entrance on inside as a ladder if going for a vertical box.

Zebra/Bengalese finch; the requirements are the same, 5 inch (12.5 cm) in all dimensions works well with the front smaller in height by 1-1 inch (2.5-3.75 cm) to leave an entrance opening on the top front, a perch below the entrance can be added but is not actually necessary. Alternatively these types of finches will often take to an open or semi-open small wicker basket.

The above dimensions are by no means set in stone and all sizes are approximate, some deviation either way is normally fine.

Your nest box will need cleaning out regularly when in use and I always discard my used nest boxes at the end of each breeding season and start the next with new.

Whilst they are nesting feed your birds their normal diet, but also a little more fresh foods than normal, they need to keep up their strength and feed their young. A supplementary egg food (available from all good pet stuffs suppliers) also helps but I have often successfully bred my birds without it, some just ignore it. Finches whilst breeding may also benefit from some live food such as mealworms etc. Ask your supplier. Make sure that food is always available to your birds, especially during breeding when they will undoubtedly use more than normal.

This subject and others are covered more extensively in my new ebook coming soon. So for more information or to reserve your copy please email me.

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