The organically maintained landscape
The organically maintained landscape
The organically maintained landscape
The organically maintainedlandscape
In natural systems, organic matter generally cycles in place, added to the soil through root and stem decay of winter killed annuals and leaf decay. A thriving microbial community digests and breaks down this organic matter to release nutrients back to the soil. Organic soil amendments may be needed to help balance the soils chemistry, stimulate its biology, and restore its physical composition. Such amendments may also be needed to feed turfgrass in a lawn, which has extraordinary nutrient needs because it is grown in an unnatural way, perpetually mowed and kept green as long as possible.
NPK and Inorganic Fertilizers
Lawn and landscape care methods, which directly feed the plant with synthetic nitrogen-phosphorous-potassium (NPK) lead to damage to the soil and a weak root system, making the turfgrass or plants in the landscape more susceptible to insects, disease and drought. Over fertilizing the turfgrass or plant will also inhibit the development of mycorrhizae, a symbiotic fungi growing on or around the plant roots that help gather nutrients beyond the range of the root themselves. Eventually the soil structure collapses and becomes infertile.
Leaching
Like the negative end of a magnet, nitrogen in the form of nitrate is negatively charged and is not attracted to soil's negatively charged clay and humus. Negatively charged clay repels negatively charged nitrite (NO2) and nitrate (NO3) so they will not be absorbed by the clay and are left to move down through the soil and into the groundwater, where streams and drinking water can become contaminated.
Reviving collapsed soil structure
To revive dead, compacted soil, it will necessary to apply compost and compost tea to improve and build soil life.
A well-balanced soil fertility program that increases humus content, organic matter and beneficial microorganisms recycles nutrients, improves water retention, balances minerals and buffers PH. In addition to compost, organic matter (manure) and compost tea other amendments may be indicated based on soil test results. These include natural surfactants to aerate soil, root stimulants and developers, rock dust, secondary and micronutrients, flocculants, vitamins, beneficial microbes, enzymes, organic humus, fulvic acid, kelp or dextrose.
What is nitrogen (N)
Nitrogen is an essential macronutrient because it is required to create amino acids and proteins, genetic material, chlorophyll and other important biochemical molecules. Nitrogen is the most abundant gas in the atmosphere (78%) but the gaseous form (N2) is inert and unavailable for use by animals and most plants. Turning N2 into available nitrogen or "fixing" it, requires breaking the bond between the nitrogen atoms that requires energy. Under natural conditions, nitrogen is fixed by lightning strikes through the atmosphere and by the work of a few species of symbiotic bacteria and some free-living bacteria and fungi in the soil or water. As part of the symbiotic relationship, the plant subsequently converts the ammonium ion to nitrogen oxides and amino acids to form proteins and other biologically useful molecules, such as alkaloids. In return for the usable (fixed) nitrogen, the plant secretes sugars to the symbiotic bacteria.
What is Phosphorous? (P)
Phosphorous, in the form of phosphate, is an essential macronutrient it is a vital part of the cellular energy transfer. Phosphorous is added to soils in natural systems by rock weathering. Leaching and runoff removes phosphorous from the soils, where it is carried to aquatic systems like aquifers, streams, lakes and bays. In fresh water aquatic systems excess phosphorous can substantially increase plant productivity and lead to eutrophic conditions (lack of oxygen), causing increased phytoplankton and bacterial growth, loss of dissolved oxygen and loss of animal life in the system.
What is Potassium? (K)
It is primarily used in fertilizers as either the chloride, sulfate or carbonate not as the oxide. Potassium is an essential component needed in plant growth and is found in most soil types. Potassium has two roles in the functioning of plant cells. First, it has an irreplaceable part to play in the activation of enzymes, which are fundamental to metabolic processes, especially the production of proteins and sugars. Only small amounts of potassium are required for this biochemical function.
Second, potassium is the "plant-preferred" ion for maintaining the water content and hence the turgor (rigidity) of each cell, a biophysical role. A large concentration of potassium in the cell sap creates conditions that cause water to move into the cell (osmosis) through the porous cell wall. Turgid cells maintain the leaf's vigor so that photosynthesis proceeds efficiently.
Plants are apparently unable to regulate the uptake of potassium; and if the soil supply is high enough, so-called luxury consumption may result. Under such conditions, the high potassium content in the grass plant may cause an excessive amount of stiffness in the stems and leaves as well as other undesirable or harmful effects.
NPK note: Commercial preparations of fertilizers have a somewhat misleading labeling system. It is often said that the three main numbers listed is the amount of Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium in the product. This is NOT the case. You must read the label carefully. If you read carefully, you will find that the last number is the percentage of Soluble Potash NOT Potassium expressed as K2O.
THE MYSTERY RATIO by Paul Tukey Here's something you won't hear from most soil testing agencies outside of the Soil Food Web: The relationship between calcium and magnesium is among the most important in lawn care.
For years, especially in the East where soils are inherently acidic, folks have applied limestone to raise the pH. Often times, that limestone has been dolomitic in nature, meaning it contains a high percentage of the heavy metal magnesium. Although soils do need magnesium to grow grass, too much magnesium will leave soils overly compacted. The result is often a high percentage of weeds.
If your soil test result from the Cooperative Extension Service tells you to add limestone at a specific rate, you will usually be better off adding high-calcium or "calcitic" limestone rather than dolomitic limestone. In soil, the ideal ratio is seven times more calcium than magnesium. Since calcium moves through the soil slowly, it is almost impossible to add too much.
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Steve
The Organic Lawn Care Store
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