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Timber Hand Rails

Wooden balasters are built in various designs and a range of different timbers could be used

. One of the most affordable hardwood clearly being balau with more costly alternatives being Massaranduba, keuring etc. The parts necessary for balasters are commonly found in balau as they form part of the structural pieces stocked by most timber merchants. Massaranduba, keuring etc. are mostly supplied in deckboards only and are utilized for the actual decking with balau being utilized as the substructure. All three of them are equally as durable and robust and only in fact fluctuate in color and grain.

The main styles of balasters which can be utilized are; picket design, criss cross, criss cross with the box in the centre as well as the steel wire rope. I will speak about each one in more detail beneath: -

PICKET STYLE

This type of balaster is often the only one that fully adheres to standard building regulations as the gap between any two parts is, or can be designed, less than 100mm. It ought to be constructed with a cross horizontal support at the top and bottom to provide the pickets a support for being connected to. The bottom horizontal support is generally placed approximately 100mm from the ground and attached to each vertical post in as long a length as possible. The top horizontal support can either be set at the top of the post and straight below the capping or set 100mm lower from the capping to provide a gap between it and the capping. The former being my personally favored application since it then provides the capping a much more rigid support and can limit bowing and cupping of the cap.


Each picket is then fixed to these horizontal supports to ensure the gap between vertical pickets is equal. Proper care ought to be taken in setting the very first and final one as the width of each picket must be taken into account when calculating the centre of every picket because of the first and final one being the vertical post itself. Pickets may be pre routed on the corners to give it a profile or left square. They could even be routed in situ leading to the router not running all of the way to the end of the picket.

A capping is then positioned and fixed on top of the horizontal support and posts, or just to the posts in the event the latter approach was used. This capping can then be routed over the edges to break the sharp corner. This capping also needs to be fixed in as long a length as possible to avoid joins wherever feasible. If a join is necessary it needs to be joined with a 45 join straight above a vertical post. This will minimize lifting on the joint.

When done the balustrade can be sealed utilizing a good quality timber preservative. It is not advisable to use a varnish type finish that will dry on the surface of the wood as it will result in flaking and pealing due to the suns rays. It is then virtually impossible, from a cost point of view, to completely remove it all when it comes time to maintain the balustrade. If a timber preservative is used maintenance will be easy as it will only need to be cleaned, possibly bleached and then re-sealed.

by: Barton Stofflet
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