Understanding Marine Reverse Cycle Air Conditioning
Staying on a boat full time in the southern part of the United States is great; we
have magnificent waterways and delightful weather that permit boating year round. But cruising in the hot days of summer would be grueling if it were not for the marine HVAC we have aboard. You may well have an HVAC system on your vessel.
But how do marine air conditioners work? Marine air conditioners make use of refrigerants that effortlessly change from a gas to a fluid and back again. The refrigerant used for ages was R-22 or Freon. A few years ago Freon was replaced with Puron or R410A, a far more environmentally safe gas. This compound is utilized to transport heat from the air within a vessel to the raw water used for reducing the temperature.
A marine HVAC system has two main pieces. They are a compressor/condenser and an evaporator/air handler. The refrigerant starts at the condenser/compressor as a cool, low-pressure gas. The compressor compresses the liquid. The solution leaves the compressor/condenser as a blistering, high pressure liquid and runs into the air handler/evaporator. The fluid goes into the evaporator/air handler; on the other side, the fluid's weight drops. When it goes down it begins to change into a gas.
As the fluid converts to gas, it eliminates heat from the air that is stimulated by the air handler. When the gas goes back to the condenser/compressor, the warmth in the air is then moved to the salt cooling water that is circulating in the condenser/compressor. The coolant then starts its trip throughout again.
The salt chilling water used on marine air conditioning units is pulled from the waters the boat sits in. The thru-hull fitting is utilized together with a number of hoses and clamps to affix to a moving pump that draws water through a sea strainer. The water is circulated through the strainer and then the condenser/compressor and lastly over board.
Connected to the evaporator is an air handler (fan) that circulates the air inside the boat. Warm air is lighter than chilly air, so the warm air in the vessel goes up to the highest area of a stateroom. The warm cabin air is sucked into the system by way of intake vents and cold air is blown back into the vessel. A thermostat changes the condenser/compressor off and on to maintain the desired temperatures.
To complete the reverse cycle task on the system, the system has a valve that permits it to switch between "air conditioning" and "heat." While the valve is switched one way, the compressor/condenser acts like an air conditioner, and once it is moved the opposite way it changes the flow of the liquid in the mechanism and acts like a radiator. When the unit is in the warming mode, heat is drawn out of the salt cooling water and the hot air is blown back into the cabin; simply a reversal of the process.
Marine HVAC systems are extremely efficient in their utilization of power. However one issue with them is that the coils in the evaporator collect frost. The system needs to defrost this ice periodically, so it reverts itself back to heat mode to heat up the coils. When the ice is thawed, the system switches back to air conditioning mode.
Another concern in the heat mode is that the more frigid the water the boat floats in, the less heat the system will have the ability to deliver.
Problem solving
The primary source of marine air conditioning problems is the flow of the water, most likely 98% of the time. Here is what you should know to resolve many marine air conditioning troubles.
1.Recognize the correct flow of water from your air conditioning outflows so you can identify any issues before they shut you down when you least expect it.
2.Constantly presume the issue is the flow of the water unless you know for a fact that the flow of the water is sufficient.
3.Should you come across ice particles on the coils, you have a coolant leak, phone a marine air specialist.
4.Feel the water coming out of the outfall. It ought to be slightly heated. Hot water means there is some blockage someplace in the system.
5.Inspect the in coming thru hull to begin with and clear obstruction by utilizing high pressure water; you might also utilize a compressed air horn.
6.Next, be sure the sea strainers are clean. I check mine every month based upon past experience. You may learn you must check your strainers more frequently or less depending on the water quality your vessel is located in.
7.On occasion, I advise you take off the hoses going from the thru hull to the pump; these hoses may get blocked with mud and algae from time to time.
8.Last but not least, flush out the complete system by utilizing the dock water hose on full blast, put into the hose that you removed from the in coming thru hull. Keep the system switched off when you do this. Get someone to watch the water flow on the side of the vessel and tell you when it flows clear. This might appear pointless but what happens is that residue remains in the lines over a period of time, preventing correct heat transfer. Purging the lines will greatly improve the performance.
9.Finally, place approximately two bromine tablets into the sea strainer basket prior to closing all equipment up. If used in ocean water, clinging critters and barnacles are unable to survive in this water.
by: Marinetrader
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