Using Lapis In Fashion Jewelry

Lapis lazuli or lapis as it is often called, has an unusual characteristic in that

the quality of the stone can be judged by its smell! This is a strange claim, but proven to be true over the years. Pyrites a sulfide compound is one of the principal ingredients in lapis and occurs in the form of the characteristic golden flecks seen on the surface of the stone. When the stone is being cut and polished, the heat caused by the friction between the stone and the cutting or abrading surface oxidizes the pyrites, causing the release of an obnoxious smelling gas. An experienced cutter can judge the quality of the stone by the intensity of this gas. Strange, but true!

Lapis is a type of blue rock that contains many constituent minerals. The primary minerals that come together to form lapis are hauynite, lazurite, sodalite, calcite and pyrites. Lazurite and sodalite give the stone its well known deep blue color. The white patches or streaks observed on the surface of the stone are because of the presence of Calcite. It should be noted that from a jewelers perspective, the presence of white calcite streaks or patches reduces the quality and therefore the monetary value of the stone. From a purely aesthetic and visual perspective however, the white or off-white streaks can give the stone character and a sense of individuality and uniqueness. As noted in the above paragraph, pyrites form the tiny shinning specks in lapis. In addition to these primary minerals, lapis also contains other minerals such as noselite, diopside, augite, mica and hornblende in trace quantities. Lapis has no definite crystalline structure but instead occurs in nature as an amorphous mass. It is often confused (sometime intentionally!) with the less expensive azurite.

Lapis has been a popular semi-precious gemstone for jewelry making ever since its discovery over five thousand years ago. Its dark blue color is quite striking in contrast to the warm glow of sterling silver. This visual match, in conjunction with matching price points for lapis and sterling silver give jewelry designers to create innovative and artistic pieces of jewelry such as sterling silver pendants, earrings and bracelets. The stone is strong enough so that it can be used as focal bead or sole gemstone in a piece of silver jewelry. However, its dark neutral color also means that it can be easily used in combination with other gems. The best examples of its use in conjunction with other gems can be seen in Southwestern and Native American jewelry designs where lapis inlays often complement inlays of turquoise.

by: Dale Arnold

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