What You Don't Know About The Suit

We can comfortably say that the lounge suit also referred to as the single-breasted

suit was used by people of the polite society and especially the British royalty in the early 18th century. By coincidence this was the same time that demand for uniforms in the American Civil War prompted American manufacturers to find ways; albeit better to mass produce clothes in factories. It was during the same time that photography, though a fairly new invention offered the ability to disseminate innovations in clothing style to a broader audience fast and effectively than ever before in history.

Many such cross influence played significant role in the evolution of men's suit over the last 200 years, conversely, there are various universal truths regarding suit selection that are worth remembering as we enter the second decade of the twenty first century.

Fit is everything in a suit

A suit can be used to achieve numerous looks, for example wearing a classic 3-buttoned suit can make you stand out noticeable in a crowd like a beacon style or make you anonymous. What creates the difference in a suit are the accessories involved, the wearer sense of style and level swagger, but fit beats them all. Can you tell the difference between an off the rack suit and a bespoke? It's obvious that the latter is designed to envelope the body closely, this can be a rather strange sensation to people graduating from ready made suits to made to fit.

The point I'm trying to make here is that ready made suits usually have bigger arm holes as opposed to made to fit suits. Ready made suits are suitable and will most likely accommodate people with bigger arms; people with small arms will require custom suits to look good. Bigger armholes normally have more fabric at the jacket sides, making the fit relaxed and comfortable.

If you look at images of suits used 100 years ago, you'll discover that they look pretty much similar to what we have today, the only difference is the level of sophistication present in the construction of modern suits, and also modern clothes, interlinings, canvasses, shoulder interlinings are relatively light. Our granny's suits weighted something close to 15 or 17 ounces a yard but modern men have gradually reduced the weight of fabrics as years pass.

That said, be careful not to obsess with the frenzy of ever lighter cloths and increasing demands for ultra designs. For a suit cloth to perform, to keep its bounce and shape after wearing then it needs to have certain gravitas and weight. Majority of tailors employ between 10 to 12 ounce of cloth in their designs and they know their game.

Finally, you need to understand that there are suits for every man, there are a bunch of cynics who think that all suits look the same, how idiotic! A suit jacket can be either double breasted or single, can have a single button or more than 5. Can have narrow, notched, wide or peaked lapels, some even without lapels. The important thing is that you blend the elements of the suit to match your body shape, your budget and where you want to wear the suit.

by: Mathieu Courchesne

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