What is the impact of chemicals on our hair?
What is the impact of chemicals on our hair?
pH Scale
To understand about hair, we should first understand the pH scale. The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14. The scale can be divided into 2 parts at pH 7, where it is neutral. . ACIDS are from pH 0 7 and ALKALINES are from 7-14. Not many people know that the pH of our skin and hair is between 4.5 5.5, hence we can see our skin and hair is acidic. We should search for good shampoos and conditioners between these pH ranges.
And what about the chemicals? Where are they located on the scale? All chemicals are alkaline. They swell inside of the hair shaft and open the cuticle of the hair. For example when tint is applied, the colour molecules are still very small and undeveloped. In half an hour of the chemical procedure they are finally developed and become much larger. Because of their new size, the molecules cannot pass through the cuticle anymore and stay trapped inside of the cortex. That's why after tinting, bleaching, perming or chemically straightening our hair usually results in fuzzy, dry and easily breakable hair! Most chemicals that colour our hair contain ammonia, which has the pH of 11. Bleach, which has a pH of 13, is used to highlight hair, that's almost at the end of the scale! This is why after using chemicals, hair can suffer permanent damages.
HEALTHY HAIR SHAFT DAMAGED HAIR SHAFT
So does this mean we have to stop coloring, bleaching, perming or straightening our hair?? Not at all! We can still keep up with fashion and covering grey hair!! However it is important to look after our hair well! Always use professional shampoo and conditioner and acidic treatments which can reduce high level of alkaline in your hair. In the market, there are many professional brands offering hair serums, nutritive ampoules and other products to further assist in the pH balance of your hair.
Is it now easier to understand what impact chemicals can have on hair? And how we should look after our hair?
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Hair Loss in Male Pattern Baldness
Male pattern baldness or otherwise known as androgenetic aloprecia' affects millions of men around the world. Andro' refers to the androgens (testosterone, dihydrotestosterone) necessary to produce male pattern hair loss. Genetic' refers to the inherited gene necessary for male pattern baldness to occur. Hair loss may begin any time after puberty when blood levels of androgens rise; it usually begins receding in the temporal areas. In general, those who begin losing hair in their 20's will have the most severe hair loss outcomes.
Hamilton and Norwood have classified male pattern baldness shown on the picture below. Hamilton found that androgens are necessary for the development of male pattern baldness. Androgens present do not need to be greater than normal for baldness to occur. In every male hair loss will occur to some degree, however, if the gene for hair loss is present, male pattern baldness will take place.
Testosterone is responsible for the growth of under arm and pubic hair, while Dihydrotestosterone (DHT) is responsible for beard growth and male pattern hair loss. DHT is the conversion of testosterone by the enzyme 5 - reductase. DHT works by binding, then entering into the cell to interact with the nucleus, changing the DNA and ultimately causing the hair follicle growth to cease. Finasteride (Propecia) works by blocking the enzyme, decreasing the amount of DHT produced therefore slowing down or stopping the process of hair loss.
There are 3 phases in the hair growth cycle; Anagen - growth phase, Catagen degradation phase, and Telogen resting phase. Hair growth cycle is affected when there is a lower percentage of hair in anagen phase than the percentage of hair in telogen phase. Hairs in telogen phase are much more subject to loss with daily trauma such as combing and washing. In male pattern baldness, hair shafts become gradually miniaturized, meaning over time, the hair shaft slowly becomes smaller in diameter and length. Pigment (colour) production is also terminated with miniaturization causing the fine hair to become lighter in colour and affected area to appear thin. Over time, those hair follicles will be permanently terminated.
In short, male pattern hair loss is an inherited condition which can be passed down from either the father or mother. The rate and severity of hair loss is unpredictable, although the severity increases with age. If the condition is present it will be progressive and relentless. Hair loss is most likely to occur between late teen-age years and age 40-50 years.
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