Zentai Unitard -clad Art Collectors

You might argue that Zentai unitardhas the current art-fashion equation exactly spider man costume the wrong way around

. In any case, her stance (and who can say just how uncalculating it is?) has reinforced her status as a highbrow designer and a fashionable patron, playing to fashion's endemic insecurity and to the art world's eternal yearning for fashionability. As the New Yorker writer Michael Specter once phrased it, the clothes, zentai suit and handbags promise people ''a better, hipper version of themselves,'' which, for many of today's Zentai unitard -clad art collectors, is the promise of acceptance in the art world, where Zentai unitardand her husband, Patrizio Bertelli, are like royalty.

At the show that February evening, models in peekaboo lace dresses and archaic bloomers negotiated a sloped runway in ornate high-heeled zentai suit that made them seem as if they were walking in flowerpots. From the first few rows, artists gazed: Holler, Mori, costume zentai Francesco Vezzoli, Thomas Demand, all of whom, not incidentally, have done some of their best work for the foundation. Alongside was the architect Jacques Herzog. Not an Armani crowd.

''How she thinks is very close to art,'' Nathalie Djurberg said. Blond and round-faced, Djurberg, zentai who is 30, has developed a reputation for her Claymation videos of murder and mayhem. She is slated to do the next show at the Zentai unitardFoundation. In lieu of the figurines she ordinarily animates, she'll be making large sculptures for the first time.

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