subject: Exfoliate Away The Age [print this page] NOTHING GIVES AWAY YOUR AGE like dull, lifeless skin. Sure, there are wrinkles to iron out and under eye bags to unpack, but that persistent dead skin cell buildup just casts a gloomy shadow over your entire appearance. Fortunately, there is a fairly simple solution that yields almost-instantaneous results: exfoliation. Getting rid of those slovenly dead skin cells that are lounging on the top layer of your skin will do wonders for your complexion. All you gotta do is rinse, lather, and repeat. There are two types of exfoliation, chemical and physical. Here, we break down the properties of each, and explain why it's important to use both in your skin care regimen.
Chemical Exfoliation
Chemical exfoliators include enzymes, retinols and acids, all of which are compounds that work to loosen the bonds that adhere dead skin cells to the skin's surface, making it easier to lift them from the skin.
One of the most well known categories of chemical exfoliators is alpha hydroxy acids. Alpha hydroxy acids, or AHAs, include glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, and malic acid, and are sometimes referred to as fruity acids, since they are derived from fruit and plants. In order for any skin care ingredient to be effective, it must penetrate the top layer of skin to reach active skin cells. Of the most common AHAs, glycolic acid has the smallest molecular composition and is therefore able to better penetrate the top layer of skin and is a common ingredient in anti-aging skincare. AHAs have a proven effect on the outermost layer of the skin by promoting diminishing the protein bonds between the top layer of skin cells and the next layer. Thus, as the top layer of dead skin cells are loosened and discarded, healthy, new skin cells are revealed, and skin appears fresher, smoother, and more radiant. Glycolic, lactic and citric acids can penetrate to the deeper dermal layer of the skin to help promote increased collagen production and thicken the skin, giving it a plumped, restored appearance.
Many over-the-counter products contain low (and generally safer) concentrations of AHAs, which are enough to loosen the bonds between the top and second layer of skin cells. Lower concentrations can generally be used on a daily basis without skin irritation, and can help smooth skin, manage acne, and reduce the appearance of sun damage. Many skin care formulas combine AHAs like glycolic acid with an anti-irratant like allantoin to help alleviate any possible irritation from the acid. Since AHAs remove that top layer of skin cells and expose younger, newer skin cells, it's extremely essential that you wear a broad-spectrum SPF everyday to prevent further damage to those newly exposed cells.
Another acid that's prominent in skin care is a beta hydroxy acid, salicylic acid. Salicylic acid is most widely used as a treatment for acne due to its antibacterial properties, and also works in a manner similar to AHAs by causing skin cells to shed more easily. When skin cells shed, clogged pores open up, allowing the salicylic acid to penetrate better, neutralizing bacteria and allowing the pore to constrict.
Thirdly, retinols (which can be listed in an ingredient list as vitamin A, retinol, retinyl actate or retinyl palmitate) are a widely accepted and proven group of chemical exfoliators. They are especially effective because their molecular structure is small enough to penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin to signal skin cells to increase collagen and elastin production. Increased collagen and elastin production plumps up skin, and smoothes out lines and wrinkles, thus making retinol almost an essential ingredient in any anti aging skin care routine.
Physical Exfoliation
The second type of exfoliation is through physical means, which include microbeads, nut granules, salt and sugar, microdermabrasion crystals, and other grainy particles. The way these particles work is a little more straightforwardthey simply slough off the dead skin cells that adhere to the top layer of skin when massaged over skin. Removing those pesky dead skin cells can help promote cell turnover, reveal fresh skin, smooth out wrinkles, and diminish pore size, and all the while promoting a healthier, younger appearance.
Developing a skin care routine that incorporates both chemical and physical exfoliators can help you reveal your best-looking skin. Use a chemical exfoliator to loosen dead skin cells from the epidermis and prepare them for exfoliation. Physical exfoliators can be a little more irritating to the skin, so use one a maximum of 2-3 times per week to remove those loosened dead skin cells.
In order for exfoliation to be an effective anti aging tool in your skin care routine, you have to be dedicated to the cause. Choose a daily cleanser that contains a chemical exfoliant so skin cells are consistently being washed away and your face is extra-prepped for any weekly scrubbing you do. If you have sensitive skin, look for cleansers that also contain allantoin, aloe or green tea, since all those ingredients help calm irritation. That pretty face of yours doesn't deserve all the attentionyour body needs love, too. You can find a body wash that contains both chemical and physical exfoliants. Just make sure the particles in the formula are gentle enough to use everyday. Stick to the plan and give it a little elbow grease, and you'll be glowing from head to toe in no time.
