subject: Dress better in the office [print this page] Dress better in the office Dress better in the office
A few simple steps can transform the professional image projected by an individual and it does not have to be expensive (but can be if you wish!).
I will try to highlight the most common mistakes made with dress in the business place and suggest ideas for all budgets to correct these issues. We shall take each garment in turn.
SHIRTS
Most shirts are worn too baggy with the sleeves too long, the neck to large and the shoulders too wide....
Ready-to-wear shirts are sold by neck size and in quite a few ocassions by sleeve length also. Unfortunately for a given neck size the variation in body measurements can be vast, so it is unlikely that a ready-to-wear shirt will give satisfactory results off-the-peg.
However, most fit problems can be fixed by a competent tailor or seamstress. When buying ready-to-wear shirts one other measurement (in addition to collar and sleeve) is important, but cannot be specified. This is the width of the shoulder or yoke, the distance between the ends of your shoulders, and if you want a well fitting shirt then it is essential that this is correct for you.
The chest, waist and seat can all be altered (unless they are too small!), so you should try on several make of shirts in your collar/sleeve combination and look for the best fit in the shoulders. Your tailor can fix the rest. Correct sleeve length, by the way is to where the thumb meets the wrist. A good quality ready-to-wear shirt is likely to cost 40 - 80 depending on fabric and country of manufacture. It must be 100% cotton. Try T.M Lewin for budget RTW shirts.
If you want a well fitting shirt straight off then made-to-measure could be a good option, especially if no ready-to-wear shirt meets your shoulder requirements, or perhaps you have exceptionally long sleeves. Another advantage of made-to-measure is the greater choice of fabrics and collar/cuff styles. You can get 'cheap' made-to-measure shirts, but for a quality fabric and quality construction expect to pay 100+.
The best fitting shirt is a bespoke shirt - bespoke shirts are made to your own body shape and size from a unique personal pattern. There should be no limit on style here, however, expect to pay 125+ for a quality shirt. Many shirtmakers will also ask for a minimum of 3 to 5 shirts on initial order.
SUITS
Off the rack suit issues in terms of fit are similar to shirts. The most important measurement is again the shoulder width. If you get this correct then a competent alterations tailor can make a good job of the rest. A good source of RTW suits is Marks & Spencer in the UK - budget 200 to 400. Also important with a business suit is getting the correct colour. Navy or Dark Grey are the best for business, avoid black, and brown may be difficult to pull of in a business environment.
Only 100% wool is correct for the office - avoid Polyester or similar at all costs - it may be cheap, but it is cheap for a good reason.
Made to Measure is a great affordable route to a well fitting suit. This involves making a suit from scratch but with pre-defined patterns. The main benefit of made to Measure is the availability of high quality fabrics and the ability to customise some of the suits features. Expect to pay between 400 to 1000 for made-to-measure depending on fabric and quality of manufacture.
The ultimate is a bespoke suit. If going this route you should get a suit that fits perfectly, BUT do make sure you go to a reputable tailor and expect to pay at least 2000 for a true hand made bespoke.
TIES
Quite simply those that can be bothered to wear a tie tend to do so really badly. Use a 4-in hand knot, pull it all the way to the shirt collar and try to get a dimple at the top. The length of the tie should be such that it just reaches your trouser tops. 100% Silk only please.
SHOES
This seems to be where people, even having got the above right, seem to fall down. Cheap (and I mean sub-120) shoes just look terrible. Buy some traditional Goodyear Welted shoes and they will last a lifetime. Polish them and they will also look good. If on a budget try Loakes, if feeling flush then we recommend Crocket & Jones.
