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subject: HOW TO TRANSPLANTING TOMATOES TO THE GARDEN ! [print this page]

HOW TO TRANSPLANTING TOMATOES TO THE GARDEN !

Move the plants into sunlight for short periods each day, gradually

increasing the length of exposure. Do not put tender seedlings

outdoors on windy days or when temperatures are below 45 Try not

to let the plants wilt during this hardening process. Tomato flowers

exposed to temperatures below 50are likely to develop into fruit with

the defect called "cat facing." If this occurs, remove the defective fruit

to enhance additional flower formation and fruit set.

Transplant hardened seedlings into the garden when the risk of frost

is low. The frost free date in Nebraska varies from year to year and

location to location. Protect the plants with paper or plastic covers,

newspapers or boxes if there is danger of frost. Research has shown

plastic tubes filled with water, sold commercially as "Wall o' Water,"

are superior to paper "hot caps" or plastic milk containers in allowing

sufficient light and adequate temperature moderation for tomato

growth early in the season.

Set the plants slightly deeper in the soil outdoors than they were

growing in the container. If the plants are tall, you can set them as

deep as the second set of true leaves.

If plants are in peat pots, tear back the peat on one side of the pot.

Press the soil firmly around the plant to form a slight depression to

hold the water. The edges of the peat pot must remain covered with

soil. If exposed, the peat pot serves as a wick for water evaporation

and the plant will quickly dry and may die. Water the plants

immediately and then double check to ensure all edges of the pot are

covered with soil.

Distance between plants depends on two things: cultivar and growing

method. Set unstaked plants 3 feet apart in rows 4 to 5 feet apart. If

the plant will be staked, plant them 18 to 24 inches apart in rows 3

feet apart. Caged tomatoes are best spaced 24 to 36 inches apart in

rows 4 feet apart.

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