subject: Gold Lame Eighties Jogging Suit [print this page] Speaking of Versace, Donatella's vision couldn't have been further away from Cavalli's. In spiderman costumes the closing show of Milan Fashion Week, she proved that Versace doesn't have to be vulgar. While the signature bright colours and evening dresses were all present, there was a pared-down elegance that gave it a modern edge. And the best and worst outfits of the week? The worst were Giorgio Armani's sequined strapless all-in-one with its baggy ski-pant bottoms worn with black patent trainers; Lawrence Steele's cheap gold lame Eighties jogging suit; and too many to mention at Miu Miu, spider man costume where it was proved that no matter how many green quilted-satin salopettes and knitted shorts you send out, old Bottega Veneta will always be old Bottega Veneta. In short, it was a week that divided the Milan fashion industry into three groups: the New Hards (Gucci, Zentai unitard ); the Old Hippies (Marni, Dolce & Gabbana); and the Stubborn Classicists (Armani, MaxMara). Black is the new black, lightened only with white and the faded romantic colours (pistachio, duck-egg blue, rose), and the biggest trend was the return to old formulas. Zentai unitardwent back to the old trick of using sex to sell clothes; Tom Ford at Gucci went back to his mid-Nineties heyday; Fendi went back to being a furrier; and Missoni went back to the Seventies, when the brand was at its most powerful. But these safe moves said more about maintaining stability and customers during these uncertain times than doing an about- turn from last costume spiderman season's more directional collections.
