subject: Everything You Need To Know When Considering Installing A Shower Within Your Home! [print this page] The first decision you need to make is where you are going to install the shower. Are you going to save space and use your bath as a shower or will you have a separate unit? If you do wish to use your bath, there are several bath products designed specifically for the purpose. See our section on combination baths.
If you would like to install a separate shower unit without the need for doubling it up with the bath, there are several design considerations to make regarding its location and construction.
A complete shower unit may be purchased which includes all the necessary components. The shower, shower tray and walls of the cubicle are all pre-made and require only assembly and installation. Obviously, this set up is also relatively expensive.
Alternatively, you could build in a cubicle making use of the walls of the room and/or additional stud walls constructed to suit. This method is more labour intensive but can represent a considerable cost saving. It also has the advantage that it may be built to suit your requirements more exactly.
Building a shower cubicle
There are many possibilities for shower construction depending on the space available, the budget for the project and the taste of the user. The shower may be built against one wall and stud walls constructed on one or two of the sides. The shower could make use of the corner walls of the room. There is also the option of building a shower as an integral part of a cupboard arrangement. The 'open' side or sides may then have a screen or curtain installed. Access to the shower may be from one side or the corner of two sides.
Consideration at the design stage should also be given to the plumbing. It always looks far neater and professional if all the pipework is hidden from view. This can be achieved either by routing the pipes through the rear wall of the shower if this is possible, or by building a false wall in front of all the pipework.
Drainage from the shower tray can be a little problematical as the need for a 'fall' in the waste pipe can be difficult to achieve. The fact that the base of the shower is at floor level means that the waste will need to drop below it. If the joists supporting the floor run in the same direction as the waste pipe, there may be room to fit the waste within the floor depth. However, you've probably just discovered that yours run the other way. The way round this is to raise the base of the shower to provide the necessary slope of 6mm per 300mm length of waste pipe. A quick calculation will show you that the additional height of the base will not present too much of a problem. (a 3m run of waste will require the base to be lifted by 60mm). Some of the better shower trays come with an adjustable base height or optional plinths.
The tray is fitted with a shallow trap to minimise the under tray space requirements, but not if the waste is connected directly to the main stack via a strap boss. In this case it is required to be a deep trap.
Stud walls may be constructed to suit your design. The face of the walls should be made of marine grade plywood since the area will be subjected to considerable moisture. This is screwed and glued to a frame of suitably spaced and strengthened timber studwork.
Remember to seal all the angles between walls and the edges of the shower tray with mastic, so that there is no possibility of water percolating through.
The false wall referred to earlier is built on the same principles. It will accommodate the pipework between the timber uprights and also provide support for fixing the shower controls and adjustable rail for the shower head.
The surface of these walls should be sealed and may then be clad with ceramic tiles using a waterproof adhesive.
Choosing a shower enclosure
Shower enclosures come in several forms either filling one side of a recess as described above, two sides of a corner installed shower, or all three sides of a free-standing shower enclosure. Most enclosures are sold without a tray although there are complete products available such as Matki. All Matki shower enclosures include their matching shower tray.
Currently fashionable, frameless shower enclosures enable easy cleaning as the glass has no frame and therefore fewer gaps for dirt and limescale build up. Frameless shower enclosures are also known as 'Minimalist enclosures'. Ranges including frameless enclosures include Matki and Gal.
Many shower enclosures are slightly adjustable to allow for fitting in irregular positions. When choosing a shower enclosure for a room with a low ceiling you should be sure to account for the additional height of the shower tray.
Choosing a shower tray
Shower trays are available in steel and stone/resin construction. Steel trays, as well as being more durable and less prone to cracks and chips, are generally lower profile allowing assembly in rooms with lower ceilings. They also tend to be more expensive than their stone/resin equivalents. Kaldewei produce quality steel shower trays while we recommend MX trays in the stone/resin category.
Types of shower
In order to select the most suitable and economical type of shower it is important to recognise certain factors that can determine which shower is best for you. A mixer for example, would be the best choice in a household where both hot and cold water are supplied at equal pressure from the main storage system.
Most modern showers are designed to be flexible to different water pressures (such as stored hot water and cold mains). It is important to note whether or not the chosen shower is capable of coping with certain systems and can regulate a safe level of water through the boiler.
Such systems would include those of hot water being supplied from the mains via either a multipoint or combination boiler. To ensure the shower is adaptable to such conditions, it may be worth checking installation requirements with the manufacturer or to have it fitted by a registered plumber.
Bath/shower mixer:
Here, the hose and spray of the shower are combined with a bath mixer tap, and once again, the temperature can be adjusted through the bath taps. Bath shower mixers can be wall mounted (for un-drilled baths) or deck mounted (plumbed into holes in the bath). Some baths come with tap holes and some without. Many plumbers are able to drill tap holes but you should check with your plumber to be safe. All of our tap ranges include wall and deck mounted options.
Pros
Relatively cheap and no extra plumbing is involved.
Cons
Temperature control is low which can prove to inconvenient and it is fiddly to adjust.
Manual mixer:
The hose and spray of a manual mixer shower are part of a wall unit and the hot and cold water supplies are connected to a single valve. The temperature and pressure of the water are controlled either one or a variety of knobs (in more expensive manual mixer showers). We recommend Kusasi manual shower valves.
Pros
The wall unit is usually fixed at chest height; this makes temperature adjustment much more convenient.
Cons
More expensive than the previously mentioned mixers. Also, the hot and cold water supply pipes will need to be plumbed in.
Thermostatic mixer:
The hose and spray of the shower are part of a wall unit and the hot and cold water supplies are connected to a single valve. It is complete with a built in stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature and to prevent it from becoming too hot. For examples of thermostatic shower valves see this link.
Pros
The controlled temperature makes it extremely convenient. Also the thermostat means that the temperature and flow of water should not be affected when water is being used elsewhere in the house.
Cons
It is the most expensive of the different mixer options.
Power shower:
A single mixer unit containing an electric pump which is capable of altering both the water pressure and temperature. This type of shower can be fitted provided that there is a water supply from a cold water cistern and a hot water cylinder.
Pros
Both the pressure and temperature of the water are easily adjusted making it convenient to use.
Cons
It is not suitable for water heated directly by the shower or where the water is supplied by a combination boiler under mains pressure. Also, the removal of waste water can be slow if the waste pipe is not big enough. It is best to use a 50mm (2in) waste pipe if possible.
Electric shower:
A wall unit which is plumbed into a mains cold water supply only. The water is heated as it passes through the unit. It is important to note that for this type of shower to be installed, the mains pressure needs to be at least 0.7kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The unit allows the temperature and pressure to be adjusted as appropriate via a knob without the use of an additional pump.
Pros
Some models have a stabiliser for the temperature so that the water supply remains unaffected by other taps elsewhere in use within the household. It can also ensure that the water supply does not run too hot or cold.
Cons
Because the control knob only allows for the option of high temperatures at less pressure, or lower temperatures at a greater pressure, the spray is often weak in the winter when the mains water is colder. This problem is combated in some models which are available with a winter/summer setting. The unit must be wired to an electric power supply according to Electricity Board requirements.
Installing the shower
The following is a step by step guide to the shower installation process.
1. Using the instruction guide that should have been provided fit the shower control.
2. Before fitting the pipes that will eventually supply the water to the shower system, it is important to cut off the water supply. In order to protect the pipes, they should be given a waterproof covering and isolating valves should be fitted. The pipes can then be recessed into the wall and plastered over to neaten the overall look.
3. Fit the shower tray, shower head, and fittings.
4. Connect up the main shower control to the pipes that will be supplying the water. (This may require a female screw thread adapter).
5. Reconnect the water supply and test the pipes for any leaks, as some may need tightening.
6. If it is an electrical shower that is being installed, the electricity supply must be switched off, before making any electrical connections. Once these connections have been made (there should be guidance within the instruction manual), the power supply can be switched back on.
7. The shower should now be ready for the screens and cubicle tray to be fitted.
By following the above guidelines you should find that you are able to install any of the latest showers and accessories within the bathroom
