subject: Cru Bourgeois like Château Saint-Paul is the quintessential Bordeaux red wine even in Manila Philippines [print this page] Cru Bourgeois like Chteau Saint-Paul is the quintessential Bordeaux red wine even in Manila Philippines
Chteau Saint-Paul is the quintessential Bordeaux red wine, the kind of wines that make Bordeaux the darling not only of wine lovers in England where these wines are called Claret, but also everywhere else in the world where wine is appreciated. Those who follow news about frequent changes in ownership as well as wine makers of these chateaux in Bordeaux, may be interested to know that Stephane Derenoncourt of some repute is behind the wheel at this property.
The cepage blend is classic for the left bank of Medoc, roughly 48% Merlot 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet Franc and a bit of Petit Verdot. At the age of 14, this Chateau Saint-Paul is matured but not old and certainly not fragile or frail. Most people drink these Cru Bourgeois wines far too early. Below five years of age, the difference between AC Bordeaux and a good Haut-Medoc is discernable only at the academic level. At 10 to 20 years of age, these Cru Bourgeois wines really start to shine.
The 1996 has a very intense nose, aromatic in a fruity way, cassis dominating the bouquet that is now well integrated. On the palate, the wine is full and rich. The fleshiness of the Merlot catches the attention right from the attack and continues to deliver that soft and mellow mouth-feel through the finish. Interestingly, the Cabernet Franc also came through to make this Haut Medoc behaves remarkably like a Bordeaux wine from the right bank, Cotes de Castillon or a satellite appellation of St. Emilion. The wine is not flabby nor is it angular. It is vigorous and the acidity is fresh and crisp. This is a robust red wine from Medoc, highly recommendable, a star among its peers for sure, worth at least 86 points on any 100-point scale.
One has to temper these praises and compliments with the recognition that the accolades are earned against a lower benchmark of "affordable" wines. Haut Medoc wines are regarded in general, and quite erroneously to be sure, as good-value wine for everyday enjoyment. To be sure, this 1996 Chteau Saint-Paul has glaring flaws but they are readily mitigated by the modest label and humble price tag. The nasty herbaceous quality of Cabernet Sauvignon keeps piercing the veil provided the Merlot and Cabernet France. Green pepper and mushroom flavors are not flattering to the wine.
This wine can be enjoyed for its opulence, full bodied texture and rich fruit. It is good for another 5 years and more for those who have a penchant for elegant old Clarets. Food is necessary to help cover up the flaws a little. Good food pairings for this 1996 Chteau Saint-Paul include braised beef, port reduction sauces and even pizzas and pasta.
Recommendation: buy, buy and buy some more as long as the price is below $50 a bottle.
