subject: Staining Your Own Furniture For Your Home Office [print this page] If you are interested in decorating your home office on a budget, you may want to consider staining your own furniture, instead of buying new expensive things. The process is easy if you follow it exactly!
First, you need to select the color of stain that you want to use. There are many types of stain and finishing products at a home center store.
Speak with the expert on the floor, tell him what your project is, and ask for recommendations. Don't settle for a stain/varnish all-in-one finish.
Since these finishes are brushed on and not wiped off (as you do with stain alone), you will not have any ability to lighten or add color to your piece. Check out the colors of stain available and test the stain on a sample board or piece of wood.
Use a foam brush to apply the stain. The good quality ones will hold the stain well, can be squeezed out to "lay off" excess stain, and the foam can squeeze into corners and cracks.
For the most durable finish, apply one or two coats of water-based polyurethane after the stain has dried completely. You can select a high-gloss, satin, eggshell, or matte finish depending on what you like.
Remember that a high-gloss finish will accentuate any imperfections in the wood surface. When you see the finish in the can, it will look milky.
Never fear, it will dry clear. If you're applying more than one coat, sand lightly between coats.
If your piece is going to get some serious wear, apply another coat on those areas. Set up a space for sanding with a drop cloth to place the piece of furniture on.
If you can work outside, you'll save lots of clean-up time. You'll be able to sweep away the dust and you won't have to clean your whole house.
Dust gets everywhere. If you have to sand inside, cover anything you don't want to get dirty.
Wipe down the piece with a damp lint-free rag. Wipe it off again with a clean dry lint-free rag.
Lay a sheet of plastic or canvas tarp on the floor before you start the dirty work. Lay some newspaper over the tarp to provide an absorbent layer for stain drips.
If you're working on a large piece, use chunks of wood to raise the piece off the floor. You'll be able to stain all around the bottom and legs and save your back in the process.
The tint of the stain settles to the bottom of the can. Mix it well by shaking the can.
Next, stir the stain with a paint stick until it's completely mixed. Pour about a half inch of stain into a paint tray or shallow pan (that you won't be using again).
You will need to work in sections as you apply the stain. Turn the piece over and do the bottom first.
Stain, wipe off the excess, then move on to the next section. Do the most noticeable areas last.
That would be a table top, the topside of a chair, a desk writing surface. Next is probably the most important step of the whole process.
By removing the excess stain, the grain of the wood will show through and give the piece character. You'll need lots of lint-free rags for this process.
If you don't wipe down the stain, the liquid will become sticky and you won't be able to smooth it. If the stain isn't dark enough, reapply another light coat, let it soak in, and wipe off again.
For more information about staining and wiping down, check out the application tips on the can. It will take about 24 hours for the stain to dry completely.
Set the piece in a dust-free area out of traffic. If you live in a very humid area, the drying might take longer.
In a dry area, it will require a shorter time. Rub your hand over the dry stained piece of furniture.
If there are any rough or uneven areas, lightly sand them down, taking care not to remove the stain. Carefully wipe off any dust.
Choose your final coat, whether it's wax or oil or polyurethane. Apply according to the directions on the packaging of your product.
Once it is completely dry, you are ready to arrange your office! Remember, practice makes perfect-each piece will get better.
