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Madeira's Santana Is A Gem
Madeira's Santana Is A Gem

Santana is , at first glance, nothing more than an atypical agricultural parish located in north east of Madeira.

Those who have visited Madeira before will certainly have already enjoyed, or at least be aware of, the peculiarly unique attraction that Santana bestows upon those wanting a pleasant half day diversion. A fact well known to the various excursion operators that run east of island tours, for Santana is usually the main scheduled stop on these tours.

The parish of Santana has a rich agricultural heritage that has plainly been continued through to the present day. Apple, cherry and pear orchards are are all cultivated along with fields of cabbages, carrots, maize and potatoes.

All the crops are grown, without the aid of fertilizers or pesticides. This frequently results in a somewhat unsightly harvest as wholly organic methods cannot completely eradicate pests and blight. Nevertheless, a well known Madeiran saying is that the ugly fruit tastes the best. Take my word for it, I can definitely advise you.

As you drive along the winding, narrow roads that take you into the centre of Santana itself, you will begin to see a number of randomly scattered shed constructions that are dotted about the landscape. To all outward signs, these are just a basic two lengths of corrugated iron propped up against each other in an inverted "V" shape in order to create an uncomplicated structure for protection from the weather.

Firmly rooted in the past, these A-framed buildings have developed from a traditional timber-framed design that in former times used loosely tied bundles of straw to form the roof that slopped down to just above the level of the earth on either side. The principle use of these structures was to offer shelter for cattle and they are widely known by the name of Palheiros.

Soon, after arriving in Santana you will find that the area devoted to tourism prominently features the Palheiros as well.

Is it true that you can now see, in the centre of town, a collection of glorified cow sheds?

It is a tough question and the answer is both "yes" and "no".

"Yes", these homes are in essence a glorified alternate incarnation of the Palheiros. However, here they retain from an previous era their original thatched roof. Also, the front and end walls are white-washed and kept meticulously gleaming in the bright sunshine. To the front, a red painted door welcomes you in and the similarly garish bright green of the window frames completes the picture.

"No", these ornate Palheiros are not intended to house cattle, though. Rather, they have been constructed for human habitation as you will discover if you venture inside.

The interiors are decked out with wooden furniture and reflect a time before electricity had become all-pervasive in our lives. To the rear, you will discover sleeping quarters that barely have space for one, small double bed and that is it.

As you exit, take time to reflect upon the harsh and meager conditions that gave birth to contemporary Madeira. Today, the archipelago is home to a sophisticated, cosmopolitan society. Possibly there is a lesson to be learned here that everybody should recognised and consider with profound thought.

Santana is without doubt a tourist destination where the past comes alive in modern Madeira and it is as an intriguing and unique place to visit.

Resources:

http://www.love-madeira.com

http://www.love-madeira.com/santana-madeira.html

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