Finding somewhere with world-renowned snow but near empty slopes seems impossible. Not so,
The ski industry is all about numbers. The numbers of runs, the kilometres of pistes, the hourly lift capacity, the number of beds available. Although these figures are rarely representative of the true worth of a ski area, established resorts have long seen the value in joining forces with neighbouring ski hills to boost their stats.
The French started it all when they linked the Three Valleys (Courchevel, Mribel and Val Thorens) and the Espace Killy (Tignes and Val d'Isre) areas. These were logical moves: large "name" resorts in adjacent valleys were involved, with the result for skiers being wider choice, better facilities and, ultimately, more value.
In Switzerland, the massive Four Valleys area, with Verbier at its heart, quickly became the main player.
The advantages for the resorts themselves are obvious, but does bigger necessarily mean better? After all, popularity brings its own problems, among them high prices, packed pistes, ridiculous lift queues and slopes bereft of snow by midday during the average powder day all of which are increasingly common complaints in Europe's marquee resorts.
The remedy? www.ourveysonnaz.com. Look ever-so- slightly further afield. In each of the "super areas" there will be one glittering central resort, with lots of satellite towns in orbit. It is these towns that will be offering the cheaper options, the emptier slopes and the untracked powder. The Four Valleys is a classic example. How many of the hordes visiting Verbier each year are aware of the other options nearby?
In fact, there are five main resorts within the Four Valleys area: Verbier, Nendaz, Veysonnaz, Thyon and La Tzoumaz. Run the numbers and you'll find a ski area ready to challenge any of the other multi-resort areas. They were linked in the 1970s and have an impressive 412km of slopes connected by 92 lifts (the uppermost of which tops out at 3,330m). Even better, the valleys (including Verbier) retain the quaint Valais charm that is the hallmark of this part
So thank goodness that the Four Valleys is so rich in alternatives, with a stand-out trio of Veysonnaz, Nendaz and Thyon. Veysonnaz is a fantastic way of experiencing the skiing opportunities of the region without succumbing to the hectic chaos of Verbier. It is a quiet little Valais town situated on the edge of the Sion Valley, perfect for families and those looking for a relaxed skiing experience. A glance at its winter calendar reveals some of Veysonnaz's character: this season's highlights are the arrival of Santa on Xmas day,a Children's Carnival (end of Febuary, weekly torchlight and moonlight ski descents, and the Big Egg Hunt at easter.
Quiet it may be there are only 11 lifts in Veysonnaz, including a fantastic new gondola lift which provides access to the most popular slope called the Piste de L'Ours but it still has some serious skiing. The International Ski Federation holds a World Cup race on its slopes, and this year Veysonnaz will also host the Swiss Skiing Championships. And if you buy the Four Valleys ski pass, as opposed to the Printze sector pass (which accesses a respectable 220km of pistes serviced by 50 lifts in its own right), you're plugged into each of the other valleys.
The fact that the town is off the British radar will be a plus for some. Veysonnaz exists as a classic Swiss ski enclave, where the fondue flows freely and there is scarcely a British voice to be heard. At only 160km from Geneva, it is also popular with local holidaying Swiss, many of whom keep a second home in the region.
In terms of skiing, Thyon was once rather isolated. However, a new high-speed, four-person chairlift called the Ethrolla has changed all that. This speeds skiers to the top of the resort, from where it is easy to link with Veysonnaz and the rest of the circuit. There is also a surprisingly progressive aspect to Thyon, which has a well-run terrain park and a half pipe. It was one of the first Swiss resorts to offer snowboarders a dedicated terrain park, and it still plays host to the Swiss Snowboard Championship. While the reputation of a resort such as Verbier means it will always be popular, Nendaz, Veysonnaz and Thyon are proof that it is still possible to find some hidden gems.
What will really strike any first-time guests is just how quiet and open the slopes can be, even to the point of stopping to think "Am I missing something here?" You can't help feeling smug in the knowledge that over the valley they won't be enjoying edge-to-edge carving on pristine pistes like you are.
Veysonnaz is the perfect place for those who want to enjoy a moderate aprs scene and really want to improve their technique, or those looking for an intense but relaxing break. Although you can expect burning thighs in the evening, one thing is for sure: you won't be nursing too many pains in your head, or your pocket.
There are many places to stay in the small village we always stay in www.ourveysonnaz.com which is centrally located and great value. Beside the butchers, bakers, supermarket andrestaurants but still only 6 minutes walk to the Gondola. Fantastic
After one day spent on the ski slopes or walking, Veysonnaz makes everything you wish for seem possible, so that your nights are as beautiful as your days.