subject: The history of the Indian takeaway [print this page] The history of the Indian takeaway The history of the Indian takeaway
As soon as the weather turns colder, we seek comfort in a warming curry from the local Indian takeaway. We all love the spices, fragrant smells and delicious flavours of the curries but we rarely think about the origins of these delicious dishes. Where they originated and what were the influences behind the popular dishes korma and biryani.
Many Indian dishes prepared in the West are less than authentic versions of original true Indian dishes. When Sylheti sailors from the Gujarat in India landed in the UK they found that curries were being served with beer and the locals loved the combination. Based on this observation they also started to modify authentic dishes so they would appeal more to the western palate.
Regarding authenticity, many of the ever present curry dishes that we are familiar with today all have their own history. Each of the dishes below is a testament to battles, empires and royal intrigue that was prevalent Indian history.
Chicken Tikka Masala
Of all the Indian dishes eaten around the world, Chicken Tikka Masala is everywhere and also the most controversial dish. Origins of this dish have never been firmly established and different versions abound about its origins. One version is from a journalist in the 1970's who wrote it was a Bangladeshi chef who invented the dish. He landed in trouble when serving chicken tikka (spice baked chicken) to a customer and was promptly asked where the gravy was. To please the customer the chef created instant gravy to accompany the chicken.
Over the years the popularity of this dish has increased so much so that in 2000 Robin Cook, then foreign minister termed it as Britain's National Dish' overtaking fish and chips. Despite this dish existing nowhere in India, the UK population consume over 23 million portions of it a year either in Indian restaurants or from local takeaway. This figure does not include chicken tikka masala meals bought from supermarkets or dishes made at home.
Biryani
Like several other dishes served in the West, the Biryani is also an element of Mughlai cuisine, in that it developed and attained status under the Mughals. The name comes from the Persian word biriani', which means fried before cooking' and is primarily derived from the Persian concept of pilau (or pulao or pilaf ) but is also different from it in terms of taste and texture. The Mughals initially prided themselves on their pilaus there was an art to ensuring the rice swelled up to its full size, but without becoming sticky, or with clumps. It was also supposed to be highly aromatic.
The biryani is the result of the clash between the delicate flavours and fragrances of the pilau and the spicy hot rice dishes of Hindustan. The method of marinating meat in curds before adding to the rice is a quintessential Persian method to this Indians add onions, garlic, almonds and spices, and come up with a distinctive mixture.
Korma
Also a Mughlai delicacy, the name korma (or kurma) is from the Persian word qaurama which refers to a cooking technique of a gentle braise of meat in oil. During the eighteenth century, the centre of Mughal culture was at Lucknow, under the Nawab of Oudh.
One of the most consistent ingredients that the cooks from Lucknow used was cream. To a qaurama of yoghurt and ginger marinated meat in a simmering yoghurt sauce thickened with almonds, the Lucknawis added large dollops of cream. Like many other dishes of that era, this method resulted in smooth, velvety dishes with the luxurious sheen of richness.
In short, never underestimate the humble curry takeaway restaurant in your neighbourhood. Explore local takeaway London cuisine and notice the different flavours and tastes that abound.
