subject: How To Maintain The Idler Arm2 [print this page] At this point, you're ready for idler arm disassembly. Begin by removing the metal cap on the assembly: tap a screwdriver into the seam around the cap and the housing and pry it off. Next, remove the 19mm shaft nut and washer, then lightly tap the arm out of the housing.
There are two bushings at either end of the housing which can be pried out with a screwdriver, taking care not to score the inner housing. On this idler, the deteriorated grease seal contributed to a corroded lower bushing and shaft, and both bushings showed signs of wear and having been wallowed out by the shaft. The grease seal is on the bottom of the housing and can simply be pulled off: this seal may not be bad, but for the cost and time involved (and per Toyota recommendation to not re-use it) it's a great idea to replace it. Once the bushings are out, disassembly is complete.
Clean as much of the old grease from inside the housing as possible, then liberally pack the area for the shaft with quality MP grease. Install the new bushings and coat the inner surface with grease: the outer bushing surface and housing should be dry. The bushings can easily be driven in with the palm of your hand or with the socket. Install the new grease seal at this point if you are replacing it. Be sure to clean the idler arm shaft of any dirt or corrosion with a fine steel wool, and then reinstall it to the housing. Replace the washer on the top of the shaft and tighten the nut to 58 ft. lbs. Toyota recommends resealing the cap with an adhesive, but I used grease to form the seal. Once the cap is on, the idler is ready for installation.
Reinstalling the assembly is very quick. Locate the stud of the idler arm end (the castle nut end) into the steering link, then hold the idler to the frame and start the bolts through. Place the washers and nuts on the bolts and torque to 105 ft. lbs. Push the steering link up towards the idler arm and start the castle nut, and tighten until the hole for the cotter pin is properly centered in one of the cut-outs, which should be around 40 ft. lbs. Jam the cotter pin in, bend the ends around to secure the castle nut, and your idler arm rebuild is complete.
