Nc hoa hoc parfum l mt hn hp ca du thm cn thit hoc cc hp cht thm, fixatives, v dung mi c s dng cung cp cho c th con ngi, ng vt, cc i tng, v khng gian sng "mt scent.The hp cht c mi thm d chu to nn mt loi nc hoa c th c sn xut tng hp hoc chit xut t ngun thc vt hoc ng vt.
Nc hoa c bit n tn ti trong mt s nn vn minh sm nht ca con ngi, hoc thng qua cc bn vn c hoc t cc di ch kho c. Hin i nc hoa bt u vo cui th k 19 vi s tng hp thng mi ca cc hp cht hng thm nh vanillin hoc coumarin, cho php cc thnh phn ca nc hoa vi mi trc khng th t c ch duy nht t cc cht thm t nhin mt mnh.
Lch s -
Nc hoa t c s dng ngy nay c ngun gc t Latin mi fumum, c ngha l "thng qua khi." Nc hoa, hoc ngh thut lm cho nc hoa, bt u Mesopotamia v Ai Cp c i v c tip tc tinh ch bi nhng ngi La M v ngi Ba T.
u tin ca th gii ha hc ghi li c coi l mt ngi ph n tn l Tapputi, mt nh sn xut nc hoa c cp trong mt vin thuc hnh nm t thin nin k th 2 trc Cng nguyn vng Lng H. C ct hoa, du, v cy my vi cht thm khc sau c lc v a chng tr li trong thi gian vn cn nhiu.
Trong nm 2005, cc nh kho c hc pht hin nhng g c cho l ca th gii nc hoa lu i nht Pyrgos, Sp. Cc nc hoa t hn 4.000 nm. Cc nc hoa c pht hin trong mt nc hoa c i. t nht 60 nh tnh, bt trn, knh v chai nc hoa c tm thy trong cc nh my sn xut 43.000 foot vung (4.000 m2). Trong thi c i ngi ta s dng cc loi tho mc v gia v, ging nh
hnh nhn, rau mi, cy sim, cy l kim nha, cam bergamot, cng nh cc hoa.
Nh ha hc Rp Al-Kindi (Alkindus), vit trong th k th 9, mt cun sch v nc hoa m ng t tn l Sch Ha hc ca Nc hoa v distillations. N cha hn mt trm cng thc nu n cho cc loi du thm, n l, nc thm v cc cht thay th hoc bt chc cc loi thuc t tin. Cun sch cng m t 107 phng php v cng thc nu n lm nc hoa v nc hoa lm cho thit b, chng hn nh ni ct ru (vn mang tn Rp).
Nh ha hc Ba T Ibn Sina (cn c gi l Avicenna) gii thiu qu trnh chit xut du t hoa bng cch chng ct, th tc c s dng ph bin nht hin nay. ng ln u tin th nghim vi hoa hng. Cho n khi pht hin ca ng, nc hoa lng l hn hp ca du v cc loi tho mc nghin hoc cnh hoa, trong thc hin mt s pha trn mnh m. Nc hoa hng tinh t hn, v ngay lp tc tr nn ph bin. C hai ca cc thnh phn nguyn liu v cng ngh chng ct nc hoa phng Ty v pht trin khoa hc, c bit l ha hc nh hng ng k.
Ngh thut ca nc hoa c bit n Ty u k t 1221, nu chng ta xem xt cng thc nu n ca cc tu s ca Santa Maria delle Vigne hoc Santa Maria Novella ca Florence, Italy. pha ng, Hungary sn xut nm 1370 mt loi nc hoa ca cc loi tinh du c mi thm pha trn trong mt gii php ru theo lnh ca N hong Elizabeth ca Hungary, c bit n nhiu nht l nc Hungary. Ngh thut ca nc hoa thnh vng trong thi Phc hng , v trong th k 16, sng lc c a ti Php bi nc hoa c nhn Catherine de 'Medici, Rene Florentine (Renato il fiorentino). Phng th nghim ca ng c kt ni vi cc cn h ca c bi mt li i b mt, do , khng c cng thc c th b nh cp trn ng. Nh Rene, Php nhanh chng tr thnh mt trong nhng trung tm chu u ca nc hoa v sn xut m phm. Trng hoa cho bn cht nc hoa ca h, m bt u trong th k 14, pht trin thnh mt ngnh cng nghip ln min Nam nc Php. Gia th k 16 v 17, nc hoa c s dng ch yu bi nhng ngi giu c che giu mi c th do tm bin khng thng xuyn. Mt phn do ny bo tr, ngnh cng nghip nc hoa c to ra. Ti c, th ct tc Giovanni Paolo Feminis to ra mt nc nc hoa gi l Aqua Admirabilis, ngy nay c bit n nhiu nht l eau de cologne, trong khi chu trai ca Johann Maria Farina ca mnh (Giovanni Maria Farina) nm 1732 v kinh doanh. Th k 18, cy thm c pht trin trong khu vc Grasse ca Php, Sicily, v Calabria, Italy cung cp cho ngnh cng nghip nc hoa ang pht trin vi cc vt liu th. Thm ch ngy nay, v Php vn l trung tm ca thit k nc hoa chu u v thng mi.
Tp trung -
Loi nc hoa phn nh nng ca cc hp cht thm trong mt dung mi, trong hng thm tt thng l ethanol hoc mt hn hp ca nc v ethanol. Nhiu ngun khc nhau c s khc nhau ng k trong cc nh ngha ca cc loi nc hoa. Cng v tui th ca nc hoa da vo cng , nng v tui th ca cc hp cht thm (t nhin cc loi tinh du / nc hoa cc loi du) c s dng: L t l phn trm tng ln ca cc hp cht thm, th cng v tui th ca hng thm c to ra. iu kin c th c s dng m t tp trung gn ng mt hng thm% / khi lng du nc hoa, m thng m h hoc khng chnh xc. Mt danh sch cc thut ng ph bin (Hng phn loi) nh sau:
Dung mi loi -
Du thm thng c pha long vi mt dung mi, mc d iu ny khng phi l lun lun nh vy, v s cn thit ang c tranh ci. Bi n nay cc dung mi ph bin nht pha du nc hoa l ethanol hoc hn hp ethanol v nc. Du nc hoa cng c th c pha long bng cc phng tin c mi du nh du da phn on, hoc sp lng nh du jojoba.
Khng chnh xc thut ng -
Mc d kh thng xuyn Eau de Parfum (EDP) s tp trung nhiu hn hn so vi Eau de Toilette (EDT) v ln lt Eau de Cologne (EDC), iu ny khng phi l lun lun nh vy. Perfumeries hoc nh nc hoa khc nhau gn s tin khc nhau ca cc loi du cho mi nc hoa ca h. V vy, mc d nng du ca mt loi nc hoa EDP pha long nht thit s cao hn so vi cng mt loi nc hoa EDT t bn trong cng mt phm vi, s tin thc t c th khc nhau gia cc ngi nh nc hoa. An EDT t mt ngi nh c th mnh hn nhiu so vi mt EDP khc.
Nc hoa ca nam gii him khi bn nh chit xut EDP hay nc hoa, bnh ng nh vy, nc hoa c ph n him khi c bn nng EDC. Mc d iu ny gii tnh xu hng t tn ring l ph bin cho giao nng mi thm, n khng trc tip c bt c iu g lm vi liu nc hoa dnh cho nam gii hay ph n. Hn na, mt s loi nc hoa vi tn cng mt sn phm nhng c mt tn nng khc nhau c th khng ch khc nhau vo trong dung dch ca h, nhng thc s s dng hn hp du nc hoa khc nhau hon ton. V d, lm cho phin bn EDT ca mt hng thm ti sng hn v ti hn EDP ca n, du EDT c th c "tinh chnh" cha nhiu hn mt cht hng u hoc ghi ch c s t. Trong mt s trng hp, nhng li nh vy l cc oan, concentre cng cao hoc c th cho bit thm nng nc hoa hon ton khc nhau, lin quan ch v mt hip c nc hoa tng t. Mt v d ca vic ny l ca Chanel Pour Monsieur v Pour Monsieur Concentre.
Eau de Cologne (EDC) t nm 1706 ti Cologne, c, c ngun gc l mt mi thm v thng hiu c th. Tuy nhin bn ngoi nc c, thut ng ny tr thnh chung cho nc hoa cam qut Chypre (khng c c s ghi ch). EDS (t nm 1993) l mt lp nc hoa mi v thng hiu ng k.
Nh my ngun
Cy lu c s dng nc hoa nh mt ngun tinh du v cc hp cht thm. Nhng cht thm rt thng cc cht chuyn ha th cp c sn xut bi cc nh my nh bo v chng li cc ng vt n c, nhim trng, cng nh thu ht cn trng th phn. Thc vt l bi n nay cc ngun ln nht ca cc hp cht thm c s dng lm nc hoa. Cc ngun ca cc hp cht ny c th c bt ngun t cc b phn khc nhau ca cy. Mt nh my c th cung cp nhiu hn mt ngun cht thm, v d phn trn khng v ht rau mi c mi ng k khc nhau t mi khc. L cam, hoa, v nim say m tri cy l ngun tng ng ca petitgrain, du hoa cam, v cc loi du cam.
Tng hp ngun
Nhiu loi nc hoa hin i cha odorants tng hp. Tng hp c th cung cp cc loi nc hoa khng c tm thy trong t nhin. V d, Calone, mt hp cht c ngun gc tng hp, truyn t mt mi hng bin ti ozonous kim loi c s dng rng ri trong nc hoa hin i. Cht thm tng hp thng c s dng nh mt ngun thay th ca cc hp cht m khng phi l d dng thu c t cc ngun t nhin. V d, linalool v coumarin l c hai hp cht t nhin, khng tn km c th c tng hp t tecpen. Mi hng phong lan (thng l salicylates) thng khng thu c trc tip t nh my ring ca mnh, nhng thay v tng hp c to ra ph hp vi cc hp cht thm c tm thy lan khc nhau.
Mt trong lp thm tng hp c s dng ph bin nht cho n nay l x hng trng. Nhng vt liu ny c tm thy trong tt c cc hnh thc ca nc hoa thng mi nh l mt nn trung lp cc ghi ch gia. Nhng x hng c thm vo vi s lng ln cc cht ty ra cho qun o ra "sch" mi hng lu di.
Ly Odorants t nhin -
Trc khi nc hoa c th c bao gm, odorants c s dng trong cc ch phm nc hoa khc nhau trc tin phi c thu c. Odorants tng hp c sn xut thng qua tng hp hu c v tinh khit. Cc Odorants t cc ngun t nhin i hi vic s dng cc phng php khc nhau trch xut cc cht thm t cc nguyn liu th. Kt qu khai thc du hoc cn thit, tuyt i, th rn, hoc b, ty thuc vo s lng ca cc loi sp trong cc sn phm chit xut.
Tt c nhng k thut ny, n mt mc nht nh, s bp mo mi ca cc hp cht thm thu c t cc nguyn liu th. iu ny l do vic s dng nhit, dung mi khc nghit, hoc thng qua tip xc vi oxy trong qu trnh khai thc s bin tnh cc hp cht thm, hoc thay i nhn vt mi ca h hoc lm cho chng khng mi.
Ngm / Dung mi chit: K thut s dng v kinh t quan trng chit xut cht thm trong ngnh cng nghip nc hoa hin i. Nguyn liu b ngp trong mt dung mi c th ha tan cc hp cht thm mong mun. Ngm bt c ni no ko di t vi gi n vi thng. Cc hp cht thm cho nguyn liu thc vt thn g v x thng thu c theo cch ny cng nh tt c cc cht thm t cc ngun ng vt. K thut ny cng c th c s dng trch xut odorants khng n nh cho chng ct hoc d dng b lm bin tnh bi nhit. Dung mi thng c s dng ngm / dung mi khai thc bao gm hexane, v dimethyl ether. Cc sn phm ca qu trnh ny c gi l mt "b tng".
Ht cht lng siu ti hn: Mt k thut tng i mi chit xut cc hp cht thm t mt nguyn liu th, thng s dng CO2 siu ti hn. Do nhit thp ca qu trnh v cc dung mi tng i nonreactive c s dng trong khai thc, cc hp cht thm c ngun gc thng gn ging mi ban u ca nguyn liu th.
Ethanol khai thc: L loi tch chit dung mi c s dng trch xut cc hp cht thm trc tip t nguyn vt liu kh, cng nh cc hp cht khng tinh khit du nguyn liu t khai thc dung mi hoc enfleurage. Chit xut ethanol khng c s dng trch xut hng thm t nguyn liu thc vt ti v nhng cha mt lng ln nc, cng s c trch xut thnh ethanol.
Chng ct: Mt k thut ph bin c c cc hp cht thm t thc vt, chng hn nh hoa cam v hoa hng. Cc nguyn liu c gia nhit v cc hp cht thm c thu thp thng qua ngng t ca hi ct.
Chng ct hi nc: Hi nc t nc si qua nguyn liu, a hp cht d bay hi c mi thm ca h. Nc ngng t chng ct c gii quyt trong mt bnh Florentine. iu ny cho php tch d dng ca cc loi du thm t nc. Cc nc thu t condensate, m vn gi c mt s cc hp cht thm v cc loi du t nguyn liu c gi l hydrosol v i khi c bn. iu ny thng c s dng cho cc nguyn liu thc vt ti nh hoa, l v thn cy.
Kh / ph hoi chng ct: Cc nguyn vt liu trc tip nung nng trong mt vn khng c mt tu sn bay dung mi nh nc. Hp cht thm c pht hnh t nguyn liu do nhit cao thng tri qua nhit phn khan, m kt qu trong s hnh thnh ca cc hp cht thm khc nhau, v do khc nhau ghi ch thm. Phng php ny c s dng c c cc hp cht thm t h phch v g ha thch thm mi "ghi" hoc "nng" c mong mun.
Phn on: Thng qua vic s dng mt ct phn on, phn s khc nhau c chng ct t mt loi vt liu c th c loi tr chn lc thay i mi hng ca sn phm cui cng. Mc d sn phm l tn km hn, iu ny i khi c thc hin loi b cc mi kh chu hoc khng mong mun ca mt vt liu v kh nng kim sot nhiu hn i vi qu trnh thnh phn ca nc hoa.
Biu hin: Nguyn vt liu c p hoc nn v cc loi du c thu thp. Ca tt c cc nguyn liu, ch c cc loi du thm t v ca cc loi tri cy trong gia nh h cam qut c chit xut theo cch ny k t khi du hin din vi s lng ln lm cho phng php ny khai thc kinh t.
Enfleurage: S hp thu ca vt liu hng thm thnh cht bo hoc sp rn v sau chit xut du c mi vi ru ethyl. Khai thc bi enfleurage c thng c s dng khi chng ct l khng th bi v mt s hp cht thm huy cht thng qua nhit cao. K thut ny khng phi l thng c s dng trong ngnh cng nghip ngy nay do chi ph cm v s tn ti ca cc phng php khai thc hiu qu hn v hiu qu ca n.
Thm chit xut -
Mc d thm chit xut c bit n vi cng chng nh chung thut ng "tinh du", mt ngn ng c th hn c s dng trong ngnh cng nghip nc hoa m t cc ngun, tinh khit, v k thut c s dng c c mt chit xut c bit thm.
Cc cht chit sut, tuyt i ch, tinh du, v cn thuc trc tip c s dng xy dng cc loi nc hoa.
Tuyt i: thm vt liu c tinh ch t mt pommade hoc b tng bng cch ngm chng trong ethanol. Bng cch s dng mt hp cht hi a nc nh ethanol, hu h
