subject: Chikankari: The History And Its Making [print this page] India is known in the design world for its hand embroidery. Chikankari is one of the most popular hand embroidery work which originated in India, during the Mughal rule around 17th Century. The name chikan is said to be derived from the Persian word Chikaan or Chikeen meaning drapery or embroidered cloth. It is believed that the wife of the Mughal emperor Jahangir, Noor Jahan patronized this art. It thrived during the early days in Bengal (around Calcutta) and even in the southern India in Madras (Chennai). The Nawabs of Lucknow were lovers of this art and it was their keen interest and initiative that made this craft flourish in and around Lucknow in the Northern Indian state of Uttar Pradesh. Now chikankari or chikan embroidery is synonymous with Lucknow Chikan.
Traditionally the work was primarily done with white cotton thread on white muslin cloth (called tanzeb). Now chikan work is not only done with coloured threads but on all kinds of fabrics like silk, crepe, georgette, organdie chiffon, and tassar to produce some mesmerizing, contemporary and fashionable apparels and accessories. Apart from wearable garments Chikankari embroidery can be found on home dcor furnishings like curtains, bed sheets, table cloths, pillow covers and cushion covers.
Like many of the embroidered arts of India, Chikankari designs or paisley motifs (also called buta and butis) take their inspiration from nature and the fauna in the local region. Floral bunches, supported by leafy creepers or the traditional mango shaped kairis along with dots, triangles, squares and their permutations are designs which are embroidered on fabric. The actual production of Chikankari starts with the design to be embroidered being printed on the fabric using wooden Sheesham blocks dipped in colours made by mixing a glue and indigo (neel) with water. Metal blocks are used for finer designs.
Finally the printed garments reach the artisans who use these printed outlines as a pattern and guide. They labor over it for days (and sometimes months for finer and more elaborate work) with their skilled hands and use various stitches as the beautiful pattern slowly emerges. The work requires a lot of patience, diligence and concentration. The Artisans, mostly women in villages are involved in making these extraordinary, intricate and mesmerizing designs. The rural based women artisans involved in this craft, form probably the largest cluster in the world and is a source of livelihood for several families.
The clothes are next hand washed and charak is applied (for a crisper fabric) and then ironed before the product is ready. Given the laborious process it takes in its creation each chikankari garment is unique and a piece of art and compared to machine embroidered work (mass produced) a little costlier. In the next article on chikankari we look at the different types of stitches used in Chikan Embroidery or chikankari.
