subject: RV Expert Bruce Bernhart on Suggested Onboard Plumbing Improvements [print this page] Toilet Sprayer Toilet Sprayer
Some rigs come equipped with a sprayer for the toilet from the factory. My first rig didn't, so I added a standard sink sprayer and teed it off of the water supply line to the toilet. While I was
down there, I also added a shut off valve to the supply line. This sprayer is useful to rinse
down the inside of the bowl after use. Parts needed were a barbed shutoff valve, a barbed
tee with the correct size threaded fitting for the sprayer connection, the sprayer, a broom bracket to hold the sprayer head and the necessary crimp rings.
Built-in Regulator
After leaving my external water pressure regulator behind for the second time, I decided to
eliminate the problem by installing a Shur Flo regulated city water inlet. This is a great little
device and is easy to add to your rig. It regulates the incoming water pressure to a safe 45-50
psi and since it's attached to the rig, it's harder to leave behind. An added benefit; this
regulator seems to flow more water than the little brass ones that you attach to the water spigot. For those of you who would rather have an external regulator, they also make
one set up with hose connectors. If you are unhappy with the low flow rates you are getting
through your current regulator, this would be a good replacement for you. Available from most RV parts stores through the Shur Flo catalog.
Tank Flusher
This is a very useful item and will make your life a lot easier. It's a tank flushing system that
installs permanently into the side of your holding tank and provides an external hose
connection so that you can easily flush your holding tank. No more dragging a hose inside to
flush your black water tank. I installed one in both my gray and black water tank and I
absolutely love them. The instructions are very good and the installation is easy enough for
even the moderately handy person to do. Basically, you will need to cut a small hole in the side of the holding tank and attach the flusher head using the provided screws and some
silicon sealant. Then the simple hose extension is run to a convenient spot under the rig and
provides the hookup point for your garden hose.
Water Heater Bypass
If you are in the habit of winterizing your RV with RV antifreeze, this little addition will save you gallons of the pink stuff! Some RVs have these installed from the factory, but for those of you
who don't have one, several different brands are available. What this does is allow you to
completely bypass the water heater so that when you fill your water system with RV safe
antifreeze, you don't have to fill the whole water heater as well. To bypass the
water heater, drain it and then close the valves on the heater inlet and outlet and open the
bypass valve. Check your RV catalog. Most units are simple to install and don't require
cutting any existing plumbing and simply screw onto the existing water heater nipples. One note: If you don't use winterize your rig, then there really isn't any reason to install a bypass.
Pressure Gauge
This is a mighty handy little item! It's a simple pressure gauge installed inside the rig to
monitor water pressure in your fresh water system. It's very simple to do- just purchase a
standard gauge that will read from 0 to 100 psi or more and add a tee anywhere in the
freshwater plumbing. I added mine right next to the water heater. If you are in the habit of not
using a regulator, this gauge is a real necessity. To protect your RV plumbing, you should never expose it to water pressures in excess of 100 psi and actually, you are much safer
limiting the pressure to 45-55 psi.
RV Expert Bruce Bernhart on Suggested Onboard Plumbing Improvements
