subject: Sanding and finishing on the lathe Safety Rules [print this page] Sanding and finishing on the lathe rules
When sanding on the lathe, Always remove the tool rest from the lathe. Protect the way tubes on your MARK V by using a scrap board, cloth, or aluminum sheet stock formed to fit the tubes.
Don't use new sandpaper to finishsand your work; its sharp grit can leave rings on the wood. Before using new sandpaper, rub it together. Rather than holding sandpaper still, move it back and forth on the turning piece perpendicular to the rotation of the piece.
To sand coves and tapers, cut a narrow strip of sandpaper and strengthen its back wit a piece of transparent or plastic electrical tape. Held taut, this strip will reach down into tight coves and beads.
For long tapers or flat surfaces, use a sanding block. Or fold sandpaper in thirds and place steel wool or felt between the sandpaper and your fingers (to protect your fingers from friction heat).
Reduce sanding time by first fillig major tears in the wood. If you're sanding faceplate work, mount the piece on the upper auxiliary spindle of the MARK V. This reverses the faceplate direction and you'll be sanding against the direction the piece was turned.
Before applying finish to straight, tapered, or gradual contours, stop the lathe, and use fine grit sandpaper to lightly finish sand with the grain.
Finishing on the lathe allows you to apply a quick and even finish. For best results with oil finishes, apply it both to the wood and the sandpaper. While the piece turns, the sawdust will mix with the finish, sealing the pores of the wood. Follow the same way tube protection as with lathe sanding.
If you plan to stain your work, remember that over polishing the wood with tools or extra-fine sandpaper will close the wood's pores. Pine is most susceptible to over polishing, to the point that resin is drawn out and prevents stain from soaking into pores.
