At 3143 metres, Mount Phanxipang (also widely known as Fansipan and Fanxipan), situated in the north western mountains of Vietnam is the highest peak in Indochina. The surrounding lower slopes, and in particular the area around the small town of Sapa are a magnet for tourists, who visit the region to enjoy the local ethnic markets and meet the various colourfully dressed ethnic groups who inhabit area and its picturesque, photogenic terraced rice-paddies.
In April of this year a group comprising staff from Vietnamese tour operator, Haivenu Vietnam Tours, together with a number of their friends and associates, organised an outing to scale Mount Phanxipang peak, following the Tram Ton route, as a personal and fun challenge.
Taking the overnight sleeper train service from Hanoi at 10:00pm, the party arrived refreshed in the early morning at Lao Cai, close to the Chinese border with Vietnam. From there, vehicles had been arranged to transfer the team to Sapa and their hotel to freshen up and enjoy breakfast before beginning their ambitious adventure.
"We prepared ourselves for our challenge well in advance," Tuan, Haivenu's Tour Manager tells me, "We got great support from our full time guide in Sapa, Mr. Son, who prepared almost everything for the trip from tents (including a toilet tent), equipment, communications, porters, water pump (to refine the water), food, cook and so on. The team just needed to prepare for their personal needs and belongings to join the trip. Leading up to the trip, we all did some exercises every day to improve our overall fitness."
"Before the climb" agrees Quynh, one of Haivenu's gifted team of personal tour designers, "I felt a bit worried and initially lacked a little in confidence about whether I could reach the top. I did morning exercises regularly for a month previously, which increased my self-confidence, and also read articles about other people's experience of the mountain to prepare myself."
The short drive to the trek's start point at 1800 metres completed, the team introduced themselves to their guides and porters. "I don't know what they must have thought of us," laughs Huong, Haivenu's Sales Manager "They had been forewarned that some of us were city-dwelling office-girls, and I think I saw a trace of amusement in their eyes, but their welcome encouragement was earnest and friendly."
Unfortunately for the team, their initial enthusiasm was somewhat dampened by the onset of rain, and they soon found themselves slipping a little on the by now muddy jungle path. "The first part was not so hard," Huong continues, "perhaps because we had just started and were still excited at first, but the rain made the stream, which we had to pass along, much wider and the path was very slippery." Nevertheless, the team's spirits were soon revived with the arrival of bright sunshine as they ascended, and the magnificent views opened up to their hungry camera lenses.
Tired, but happy and smiling, the team arrived for a welcome rest at the 2,200 metre lunch stop. "The afternoon part was more difficult", Huong tells me, "We passed through various types of terrain, with lots of arduous and sometimes very steep ups and downs to contend with; we had towalk edgeways, scramble, trek... because it was so slippery, it felt a little bit dangerous at times, and we felt we had to take it slowly. Towards the end of first day, I was so tired, as were many of the others, and for a brief while," she confesses, "I did not want to go on at all. When the sun sets in Vietnam, however, it gets dark quickly, especially in forest, so we had no other choice but to continue."
"The marvellous views across the valley helped to spur us on," adds Binh, another of Haivenu's personal tour designers, "and we supported each other to overcome the fatigue," she smiles, "but we were very glad to reach our night camp at 2800 metres. Sleeping in the tent was a nice experience even though it was cold and cramped. It gave us a strange but thought-provoking feeling of being restored to our childhood days."
"Because of the altitude, the second day was harder at first", Huong continues, "especially as I was still tired from the previous day, and cloud and rain soon enveloped us again. The upper reaches of the mountain are steep and rocky, but as we began to sense our nearness to the summit, our excitement grew, which spurred my aching legs on!"
"Then, almost unbelievably, the peak was suddenly there before us, and everyone began to shout and laugh in their excitement.lots of hugging and much good cheer!" Huong remembers, "we broke out the Champagne, raised our Vietnamese flag and cameras were madly clicking all around. It was exhilarating!"
"After the climb, I felt nothing was too difficult," agrees Tuan, "I felt so great. We had all done it. We were all there and enjoyed champagne on the roof of Indochina!"
"I felt a wonderful feeling of union and friendship", recalls Quynh, "and rejoiced in our effort together. It also greatly deepened my love for travel and Vietnam's scenery in particular". Hang, a specialist in honeymoons and family holidays, concurs, "The views were beautiful and I really enjoyed our companionship. I was glad I had prepared so well with my exercises which, for me, made the climb such a fun thing to do."
After the celebrations the team began the reflective return trek. "I felt just a little deflated during the decent," Huong intimates, "because of the long journey up and the short time at the summit. If the weather had been better, I would have enjoyed the views far more during the relaxed walk down, which is so much quicker and easier than the long arduous ascent. Our last overnight stop was great, though!" she enthuses, "we had a delicious celebration barbecue at our campsite by the river. I was very tired after my exertions and slept soundly!"
The following day seemed so short," she continues wistfully, "it seemed we were back at our starting point in no time at all. It was certainly a great challenge, as I had never done such a physically demanding trip before. For me, it was a truly great experience. I love nature and greenery and always feel good with fresh air."
"To climb up to the top of Phanxipang Mountain was not easy," adds Binh, "that's why everyone who took part feels like a winner. We are all proud of having been there and have some great photos in our albums. At the top, I enjoyed a deep feeling of fulfilment, which has greatly enhanced my view of, and aspirations for, my future".
Looking into her eyes, I am sure it has.
Later, I catch up with the company's CEO, Ha. She tells me, "At Haivenu, we routinely send our staff on a wide variety of travel experiences, to enable them to advise our visitors with true knowledge and genuine experiences of the holiday destinations we offer, but this trip was completely different, as they organised the adventure entirely privately themselves as a personal challenge."
"I was so impressed and thrilled that they reached their lofty goal. I am, of course, familiar with the enthusiasm and commitment our team display daily in their work for their clients, but this was a strong physical endeavour and I am immensely proud of them all".
As an afterthought, I ask her "could I do the same thing with a group of my friends from back home?"
"Of course!" she exclaims, "just bring some suitable clothing and footwear, and my merry team of local heroes will ably put everything else together for you. October through to December may give you dryer weather, though," she hints, smiling sagely.
I have to admit, I'm tempted by the infectious enthusiasm.
