subject: How to Build a Plate Joiner Stand for your woodworking? [print this page] To reduce the setup time needed to cut slots for biscuit-jointed face frames, mount your plate joiner in a shop-made stand like the one shown at left. Build the jig from 3/q-inch plywood, except for the barrel support, which should be solid wood. Refer to the illustration for suggested dimensions.
Screw the handle support to the base, then attach the handle brackets, spacing them to fit your tool. With the plate joiner resting upside down on the handle support, butt the barrel support against the motor housing and trace the outline of the barrel on the stock. Cut or bore a hole for the barrel, then saw the support in two across its width, through the center of the hole. Screw the bottom part to the base and fit the other half on top. Bore holes for hanger bolts through the top on each side of the opening, then drive the hanger bolts into the bottom of the support. For quick installation and removal of the tool, use wing nuts to hold the two halves together.
Screw the auxiliary table to the fixed-angle fence of the joiner. (It may be necessary to drill holes in the fence to accept the screws.)
To use the stand, secure the joiner in it, then clamp the base to a work surface. Set the fence at the correct height and, for repeat cuts, clamp stop blocks to the auxiliary table to center the workoiece on the cutter wheel. To cut a slot, put the workpiece f lat on the table and butted against the joiner's faceplate, then turn on the tool and push the stock and the table toward the culter.
