subject: Manali,himachal Pradesh,india [print this page] Though it does not have the colonial characteristics of Shimla, over the last few years Manali has developed into a major hill resort, chock-a-block with modern hotels and tourist lodges. The Mall or main bazaar in Manali is the hub of activity, flooded with shops, restaurants, trekking and mountaineering outfits and wayside food stalls. Manali is the focal point for treks and mountaineering expeditions into the Solang Valley and over the Rohtang Pass into Lahaul-Spiti. It is also the beginning of the epic two-day trans-Himalayan journey up to the cold desert town of Leh in Ladakh, connected by the Leh-Manali highway. Manalis rapid ascent as a major tourist destination has been further accelerated by the rise of terrorism in the Kashmir valley. Besides the local Kullu people, the town is full of migrants including Lahaulis, Nepali labourers and Tibetan refugees. Manali is also one of the favourite joints of marijuana-hunters, ever since the hippie cult of the 60s.
Manali''s 'history'' is really more myth than history. According to Hindu mythology, Manali was the home of the lawgiver Manu (after whom the town is named). Legend has it that when a flood deluged the earth, Manu and the gods were towed to dry ground by a giant fish, which was the seventh 'avatar''
of the god Vishnu. The area where Manu eventually found refuge was Manali. Whether that''s actually how it happened or not, Manali remained a fairly quiet place, more or less unknown to the outside world, till pretty recently. During the 20th century, the British started to frequent the town- its climate and natural beauty were equable enough- and Manali gradually began to acquire the reputation of a tourist destination. This reputation got a bit tarnished during the 1970s and 80s, however, mainly because of the discovery that marijuana grown around the town was particularly good. After two decades or so of happy-go-lucky, joint-smoking hippies, Manali''s now turning into a base camp for trekkers and intrepid mountaineers. Honeymooners and families from all across India still descend on the town throughout summer, though.
Shopping
The Mall is the main shopping area, selling local shawls, rugs, caps and footwear, besides a range of Tibetan handicraft items. The Himachal Handicrafts emporium and Bhuttico weavers co-operative are good for local handicrafts. The Tibetan Bazaar and Tibetan Carpet centre run by the refugee community
sells thangkas, rugs, jewellery, prayers wheels amongst other things.
Events
The festival of Dussehra has special significance here and is celebrated with great enthusiasm in Manali and Kullu. Dussehra is celebrated in end September - October and this is a good time to be in Manali and partake in the festivity. The Hadimba Devi Festival is also
a big colourful affair in Manali and people come in from the neighbouring places to be a part of the fair which is organised by the temple complex. This fair is held in the spring time.
Night Out
Catering to a constant flow of tourists from all over India as well as abroad, the food in Manali is a mixture of the standard north Indian fare, south Indian dosas, Chinese and Tibetan dishes along with the odd Italian pizzeria and German pastry shops. Most of the restaurants usually serve a combination
of Indian, Chinese and western dishes, while the relatively inexpensive dhabas near the bus stand are best for plain and simple, no frills hot meals. Several cafes around the Mall also serve early-morning breakfast of hot porridge, pancakes and toast with jam. Roadside stalls selling tea and omelettes are popular with tourists preparing for long onward journeys.
Activities
Around Manali, there are ample opportunities for adventure sports and fishing. The Mountaineering Institute in Manali organises courses in skiing, rock climbing and mountaineering. The Institute and the tourist office, along with private tour operators organise treks from Manali. The best season
is after the rains from mid-September till end of October. The trek routes are arduous and can be treacherous, so be sure to have well trained guides in addition to the regular maps. Slopes at the Solang nala, Patalsu, Kothi, Marhi and Rohtang Pass have been developed for skiing. At Rohtang and Patalsu, skiing can also be done in summer. The swift flowing Beas River between Bhuntar and the Larji gorge is used for white water rafting, canoeing and kayaking. The best season is from end of May till early July when the water levels are the highest. Private tour organisers and rafting clubs are developing this water sport, and organise basic equipment, meals and a return trip at reasonable prices. Paragliding and heli-skiing on the slopes of Solang nala is also being promoted by some private adventure sports organisers, though the charges are quite steep. The entire Manali-Lahaul area offers plenty of scope for trekking, whether you start off at Manali itself or strike base camp at Keylong and then go hiking through the surrounding area. Among the most popular trekking trails in the region are Manali-Chandratal-Keylong . A 120 km trek which takes you to the pristine blue lake of Chandratal, is possibly the loveliest in all of Himachal Pradesh. Surrounded by mountains and glaciers, Chandratal- 'Moon Lake is situated at a height of about 15,000 ft, and is aptly named; its actually crescent shaped. From Manali , take the road up to the Rohtang Pass , and from there onto Gramphu , where you can then walk beside the foaming waters of the Chandra River , travelling eastwards to Chandratal . The river takes you to Dorni (which can be the first halt; youll have to pitch a tent here); then comes Chhatru . From Chhatru, continue to Chota Dara , the latter a major tourist centre as far as Lahaul is concerned- it has a PWD rest house, where you can actually get a hot meal and a room. From Chota Dara, take the trail past the Bara Shigri glacier to Batal , at the base of the Kunzum Pass. Batal is the final halt- a windy and chilly campsite which has a PWD resthouse- before the final lap to Chandratal . Once youve ogled and taken all the photographs you want, head back- past Gramphu, to Keylong . The trek from Manali to Chandratal and then on to Keylong should take about 10 days; its high altitude and an arduous trek, so take it easy.
Sights
The Mall or main road of Manali is the hub of activity in this tourist town, lined with hotels, restaurants, shops, the bus station and many stalls selling bric-a-brac . Though it carries the same British epithet as its counterpart in Shimla, the Mall of Manali has an entirely different
character from the colonial flavour of the former. It is more of a busy commercial street with modern concrete blocks of hotels that spill over with tourists in the peak season. Most of the hotels overlooking the foaming Beas River, however, do offer pleasant views of the valley, green terraced fields and the surrounding orchards. To get a more authentic flavour of the area, take a half-hour walk from the Mall across the Manalsu nala to reach the village of old Manali . Also known as Manaligarh , the village has a ruined fort and a cluster of houses built in the Pahari style - with heavy stone roofs and wooden balconies projecting out of the first floor. According to popular belief it is here that Manu; the lawmaker lived around the 2nd century BC. His treatise, the Manusmriti is the foundations of Hindu law and of the rigid caste system based on varna or profession. Considered one of the most orthodox Hindu texts with strict role definitions based on gender and class, the Manusmriti continues to be followed by many devout Hindus even today. In the centre of the village is the Manu Maharishi temple, a relatively new shrine dedicated to Manu. The village itself is an idyllic break from the rush of main Manali, surrounded by terraced maize fields and apple orchards. There are several guesthouses and cafes lining the path to the village. At Dunghri village , a 2 km walk from the Tourist office in Manali, is the famous Hadimba Devi Temple . Maharaja Bahadur Singh built the present wooden pagoda-like temple in 1553 after earlier structures were burnt down by forest fires. Standing on a stone platform surrounded by old deodar trees, the three-tiered temple is crowned with pennants, brass bells and a trident. Carvings of animals, plants and folk deities adorn the temple, while hunting trophies hang over its entrance. Inside the shrine is the brass icon of the goddess, surprisingly tiny compared to the huge temple structure and the legendary prowess associated with her. The shrine is within a natural cave formation dominated by huge rock. A set of enlarged footprints on the rocks is believed to be of Hadimba, herself. In mid-July the idol from old Manali is brought to this temple for a major festival. As part of the frenzied celebrations, several animals including a buffalo and a goat are sacrificed to the goddess. The blood falling on the stones is channelled to the mouth of goddess Hadimba. Not for the faint-hearted, this ancient ritual draws large crowds, along with some pickpockets who take advantage of the spellbound mobs. Manali has the largest Tibetan settlement in the valley, standing out by their colourful new gomphas, many prayer wheels and prayer flags fluttering over the houses. The Gadhan Thekchokling Gompa , built in 1969 has a prominent yellow coloured pagoda roof and bright frescoes on the walls. Inside the brightly painted prayer hall is a statue of Shakyamuni (form of Buddha). Beside the main entrance is a roll of honour listing Tibetans killed in the late 80s during the many violent uprisings against the Chinese occupation in Tibet. The monastery is maintained through donations and the sale of carpets woven by the lamas within the temple workshop. A smaller gompha near the market has a large gold-faced image of Buddha, which is best viewed from its first floor verandah. Monks can be seen printing prayer flags in the open terrace.
How to get there by Air
The nearest airport is at Bhuntar, near Kullu, 50 kms from Manali. Regular bus services and fixed-fair taxis connect the town to the airport.
How to get there by Rail
If you are planning to take a train, the nearest railhead is on the narrow gauge line at Jogindernagar (135 kms).
How to get there by Bus
The Bus stand is in the centre of town on the Mall, with road connections from Kullu, Chandigarh, Shimla and most major north Indian cities. Computerised reservation facilities are available at the bus stand. One can also drive your own car or take a hired taxi into Manali from Kullu, Chandigarh,
Shimla and other north Indian towns.
Best time to Visit
The best seasons are March-April and after the monsoons between September and November. The summer months of May-June provide better trekking options, though it gets very crowded then. If you are travelling during this peak season, it is best to book hotel accommodation well in advance.
Though Manali has a wide range of accommodations, during the peak summer season it can be very difficult to get rooms and tariffs shoot up considerably. The higher categories of hotels include the Span Resorts, Snow Crest Manor and Apple Country Resort. In the budget category Snow Valley Resort
is a popular choice. In the off-season, many of the hotels offer heavy discounts. Most of Manalis old hotels lie on the outskirts of town. The economy lodges and hotels are around the Mall, while old Manali has some guesthouses run by local people. Most of these are more popular with tourists keen on marijuana.
Nearby Places
Vashisht , a village 3 kms from Manali is famed for its hot sulphur springs. The village can be approached on foot or by road and offers a panoramic view of the valley. Traditional village houses sitting on the hillside combine with modern brick and concrete structures in this popular retreat.
There are two old stone temples with elaborate woodcarvings facing each other in the main square. One is dedicated to Rama (incarnation of Vishnu) and the other to sage Vashisht, who was Ramas teacher. Himachal Tourism runs a hot bath complex offering 30-minute sessions with piped water running into tiled tubs. The tubs are of two sizes regular and deluxe (Rs. 40 Rs.100), and towels are available for an additional cost. After a dip in the healing waters, you can relax with a glass of fresh apple juice or any other soft drink on the open terrace. Within the temple complex, there are free communal baths with separate sections for men and women. Remove your shoes before you enter the temples. Along with the traditional hot springs and the temples, the other attractions at Vashisht include the Pyramid centre run by an Italian couple and the Nembutsu centre above the village. The Pyramid Centre has an art gallery, a caf and a centre for massage and Reiki. The Nembutsu Centre offers courses in meditation. Arjun Gufa another interesting get-away is a cave 5 kms from Manali where the Pandava Arjun is said to have performed penance and Jagatsukh the ancient capital of Kullu. If you are looking for a foray into the wilderness, there are several picnic spots, natural springs and resorts close to Manali. Solang Valley at 2,480 metres lies about 14 kms from Manali is the closest glacier with ski slopes and perennial snow cover. A beautiful spring at the Nehru Kund (6 kms), a quiet picnic spot in Kothi (12 kms) and the Rahalla Falls (16 kms) at 2,500 metres are the other places worth visiting. The Rohtang La or the Rohtang Pass , 51 kms from Manali at 3,980 metres is the gateway to the desert lands of Lahaul-Spiti. The Pass remains open to traffic between June and November. Beas Kund , the source of the Beas River lies at the head of the Solang Nala and can be reached from Manali after a two-day trek.
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