subject: Tips On Constructing Wind Generator Blades [print this page] The first person to suggest constructing DIY Wind Generator Blades from PVC pipes was Mr. Abe Connolly. He recommended PVC pipe because it is easy to use, accessible, durable, and cheap to buy. "Schedule 80" is the name of a heavy PVC piping, good for this purpose, and you can purchase it from hardware-stores and at plastic supply stores.
Highly functional blades can be cut from "Schedule 80" pipe having an 8" diameter and 24" length. It's easy to cut using a saber-saw. Sturdy pieces of material with a natural curve are the result and these are able to make a generator turn using straight-line blowing winds.
Before you get started, it is important to have detailed plans, know the diameter of the windmill to determine blade length and you will need a work-bench, a saber-saw, wood-planes, clamps, etc. A saber-saw with medium blades will make an excellent cut; however, the sawing phase will be slow and will create a lot of dust. Remember to wear work clothes and safety glasses!
CUT: Secure one 24-inch piece of pipe to the work bench. Using an angle-iron, draw 3 straight lines along the length of the pipe at 5 1/4 inch intervals. By following your guidelines, you will be able to cut 3 curved-strips, all equal in size.
Two blades can be cut with the saber saw from each of the 3 curved-strips and you will end up with six blades, although only three will be necessary for each unit. This is done easily by clamping one of the strips to the work bench, sawing it on the diagonal from one corner to the middle, then flipping it over to cut from the opposing corner to meet the previous cut at the the mid-point. Round off one end of the blades, or shape a point, so that you have a finished "blade" look. The other end will be left unshaped.
SHAPE: To transport optimum wind to the generator, the lengths of the blades ought to be sanded into an air foil, also called a "wing-shape". You will want the lead edge of the blade to become roundish and the trailing-edge to have a sharp taper. The more care you give to this step, the greater the efficiency and quietness. Leave 2" at the unfinished end of the pipe without sanding so that you can drill holes for bolts. The blades will be well fastened to the generator with two 1/4 inch bolts.
FINISH: The blade surface should be coated, or "finished" properly for reliability, performance and endurance. The blade base, or "root", of the blade needs a thick coat of highly durable laminate for strength, and a long, functional life. Coating the bolts will also increase their grip.
Sprint IPT has a ground-breaking edge in the primer / fill application market for wind mill blades. They produce a proxy-resin, called "prep rep", for dry-infusion which doubles as reinforcement if necessary. Sprint manufactures cost-effective products which have a 100% guarantee against air pockets and "voids". Typically, the surface-finish items are gel- or fiber-primers. A coat of paint will follow. Knowing that your PVC blades are well-laminated and secure, you can paint them white or any color of the rainbow to celebrate your hydro-savings and caring for our environment.
