subject: Toledo, Spain: How To Get There, What To See And Where To Eat [print this page] If you're a bit of a history buff, then Toledo in Spain will not disappoint you. With UNESCO declaring it a world heritage site in 1986, Toledo is like an open air museum filled with mosques, synagogues, churches and museums.
Situated at the centre of the Iberian peninsula, it was singled out by the Romans for strategic purposes. Conquered by the Muslims in 711, Toledo was a paragon of peace and religious coexistence. Between the 8th and 11th centuries, the city grew, not only to become the most important city of central Muslim Spain, but also to become the center of arts and learning. This peaceful era sadly ended with the arrival of the Spanish Inquisition.
How To Get To Toledo:
Only 70 kilometres South of Madrid, Toledo is no more than 1 hour by bus or half an hour by high speed train. From the train or bus terminal, take a taxi to the historic centre as it is a very steep walk up to the main town. Toledo is also a virtual labyrinth of plazas, narrow, winding streets and dead-ends that only the locals can navigate. Our taxi was able to drop us virtually at our hotel door, which saved us from having to struggle with our luggage wheels over those hazardous cobblestones.
What To See in Toledo:
1. Alcazar: This castle is one of Toledo's emblematic monuments.
2. Cathedral of Toledo: An impressive Gothic building founded in the 1st century by San Eugenio.
3. Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes: A 15th century monastery.
4. Monastery Cisterciense de Santo Domingo de Silos: A 16th century monastery.
5. Puerta Bisagra: The main entrance of the old city of Toledo.
6. Sinagogue El Transito: This is a 13th century synagogue with a museum which describes the history of the Jewish population in Toledo.
7. Taller del Moro: Built in the 14th century by the Jews, this was converted into a church when they were expelled.
8. Museum of El Greco: The famous Spanish painter, El Greco, lived in this house.
9. Museum of Santa Cruz: A 16th century building that used to be a hospital.
10. Museum Parroquia de Santo Tome: This museum is where El Greco's most famous painting, the Count of Orgaz is exhibited.
Where To Eat in Toledo:
Toledo is famous for its roasts, meats and stews, particularly perdiz or partridge, roast lamb and suckling pig. You musn't leave Toledo before trying Judias con Perdiz, an exquisite bean and partridge stew that is typical of the region.
Regarding places to eat, stay well away from anything along the main plazas, as they are tourist traps. The food is very mediocre and the locals wouldn't eat there, so why should you. Below are some great restaurants that our hotel Concierge recommended that we go to. We were not disappointed.
1. The first restaurant we dined at on our first night in Toledo was called La Abadia. Situated in Plaza St. Nicolas, it was established on what was originally a 16th century palace. Their set Menu del Dia (Menu of the Day) is reasonable at 11 euros, including bread and wine. However, we chose from their more expensive but extensive a la carte menu, featuring delicious and very typical dishes of the region. The service was friendly and efficient.
2. Bar Ludena was a tiny bar cum restaurant that served the most scrumptious tapas. This was, for us, one of those rare discovered gems of our travels, places that only the locals go to that serve the most unbelievable regional food at reasonable prices. But go early, even at 6:30 PM when it just opens, and grab one of only 4 outside tables. Bar Ludena is extremely popular with the locals and it gets full very quickly. Ask your waiter to just bring a selection of typical tapas and delicacies of the region with a good local Red. The tapas come in a selection of hot and cold dishes and trust me, they are superb.
3. La Orza, situated at Descalzos 5, is a restaurant that is popular with the local business people. The interior is traditional, featuring hardwoods and unfinished stone. The cuisine is regional, favouring sirloin of venison, roast kid and suckling pig. There is a lovely outdoor terrace, which is popular in the more temperate months. Its proximity to the Palacio de Fuensalida and the Museo de El Greco draws a small tourist crowd.
4. La Perdiz, at Calle Reyes Catolicos, is located between the Transito Synagogue and the Santa Maria la Blanca Church, in the heart of the Old Jewish Quarter. Regional delicacies include fried cheese (Manchego) in orange sauce, which is scrumptuous, and Toledo-style red partridge (perdiz) stew. Good regional wines feature strongly on the wine list.
5. If you're looking for good quality, moderately priced meals and quick service, then go to Palacios. Situated in Alfonso X El Sablo, it is right at the center of town, just 100m from the Cathedral. The Menu del Dia costs EUR 6 and you can choose from 12 starters and 13 main dishes, all home made. The specialties of the house are a thick barbecued beef steak, carcamusas (veal or pork cooked with tomatoes and peas) and roast leg of lamb.
If you enjoy the cultural hustle and bustle, then don't miss this fascinating and ancient town at Easter time, where the street parades are colourful, noisy, and draw crowds from all over Spain and the world. But if fighting the crowds on those narrow cobblestoned streets, and suffering the jaded attitudes of the locals as the city is overrun by tourists, isn't your idea of a restful holiday, then I strongly recommend that you visit Toledo during the week, preferably in the Spring and Autumn months. Either way, Toledo never fails to give the sensation that one has just stepped back in time.
