Builders Tips: Tiling
If border tiles are used you need to ensure they are of comparable thickness and
size as the principal tile otherwise the joints will not match up.
External corner tiles need to be mitred so as to conceal the biscuit edge which is exposed if the tiles are lapped. This is especially necessary if the biscuit colour contrasts with the tile face and grout colour.
Check tiles for squareness before deciding on joint size. If the tiles are 1 or 2mm out of square then a wide joint of 5mm or more will probably be necessary to conceal the problem. The tiler can not depend on spacer lugs to produce even joint sizes.
A gap must be left at all floor edges to allow for movement inside the building. Wall tiles must not touch at the corners of a room.
A bead of colour-matched sealant or grout at 45 degrees needs to be employed to seal the top row of tiles. This is particularly essential in bathrooms where steam may form on the walls and run down behind unsealed tiles creating smells and possible loss of adhesion.
The standard height for tiling in a shower is 1.8m. In a lot of instances this is insufficient and water splashed above that height causes damage to the walls. Two metres of tiling is better for showers employed by tall persons.
Entry areas and verandas must be tiled with non-slip tiles since standard tiles might be very dangerous when wet.
Kickboards to kitchen cupboards and bathroom vanities normally get scuffed if they are of standard, light coloured laminates. These might be tiled over using a matching floor tile. Alternatively, a one course high brick ledge could possibly be built and the cupboard set over it. The brick can then be tiled over to create a strong, durable kickboard.
Where there is any possibility of movement in a floor, or in new constructions that have not fully settled, a extremely flexible adhesive must be employed to stop tiles from cracking.
The shower drain needs to coincide with the edge of two or ideally four tiles. This will permit the tiler to offer the fall required for the water to drain. This is specifically vital if large tiles are utilized.
Expansion joints ought to never be tiled over. The area either side may be tiled and a silicone sealant used to fill the gap.
Where you'll find visible cracks in concrete floors then the entire tile that's laid over the crack must be glued down with a polymer (rubber) based adhesive.
Tell the builder you want tiles behind the bathroom mirror. Some builders supply a significant mirror but do not tile behind it. When you want a mirror inset into the tiles then make sure it is sealed with silicone around its full perimeter so that condensation doesn't get behind it.
It is best to tile all window sills in wet areas. Dust and dampness will combine to dirty any painted sill quite swiftly.
All wet areas should have a skirting tile around the perimeter of the room to prevent moisture penetrating the walls.
To avoid air bubbles being trapped in the grout and to produce an even level to the grout, a special grouting tool might be used to press in the grout. This isn't commonly carried out but is helpful for wide joints.
Bathroom wall tiles should finish above the floor tiles so that water drains away properly. The wall and floor tiles should not touch so that grout or sealant can be squeezed into the gap.
Wall tiles must not be fixed with blobs of glue placed on the back of every tile. The whole of the wall (or tile) should be covered with glue. Use a notched trowel to give an even spread.
Crazing of the tile surface can happen when strong adhesives are employed with softer tiles. Once crazing has occurred the tiles will have to be replaced and a compatible adhesive used on the new tiles.
Silicone in-fill applied behind the cover-plate of taps will reduce the risk of water penetrating under the tiles.
Concrete floors that have been sealed must be sanded back before tiling can begin.
Big holes in walls should not be filled with adhesive and tiled over as the additional adhesive will pull inside the tile and break it. Holes must be plugged with mortar and allowed to dry prior to tiling.
When purchasing tiles, check that they can be easily cut with a standard tile cutter. Some quite challenging tiles with a rough top surface won't cut cleanly along the score line. The tiler will likely be forced to use a wet saw for cutting and this will add considerable time and cost to the job.
Floor tiles will need to finish up against the door stops of any frame. This is so that two different floor finishes will not be visible when the door is closed.
Marble tiles present a very exclusive look but will cost considerably far more to lay since they can only be cut on a wet saw. They will also require occasional sealing to stop moisture penetration.
by: Peter Smith
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