Egypt's Influence on Jewelry over Time

While the history of jewelry goes back quite far in the human time line

, the Egyptian influence on jewelry in Western countries became most prominent in the 1920s. As the tombs of ancient pharaohs were being uncovered, the rest of the world was able to lay its eyes on their treasures for the first time. Fascination set in quickly, and jewelers were immediately inspired by the craftsmanship of that ancient land.

During that time the Art Deco period of jewelry-making was in full swing, and would last through the 1940s. Jewelers such as Cartier and Boucheron were showing off innovative pieces such as the "gas pipe" necklace and "moving staircase" bracelet, respectively. After the discovery of King Tutankhamen's tomb in 1922, jewelry-makers were quick to take advantage of the West's fascination with all things Egyptian. The result of this was an increasing number of silver and gold pieces featuring amulets, scarabs, death masks, and the Ankh symbol. The Ankh symbol in particular was thought to be used for magical protection, but its actual meaning is disputed. It remains widely seen to this day, recognizable for its cross-like shape, and has even been adopted by certain Christian groups as a representation for the cross.

The materials used for jewelry by the ancient Egyptians were primarily gold, which was quite common and often used to cover bronze pieces, some silver, and a number of gemstones, especially lapis lazuli, amethyst, feldspar, and turquoise. These same materials are alive and well in today's pieces, such as golden cat amulet and black onyx earrings, cartouche necklaces (which feature the wearer's name in hieroglyphic writing), representations of various ancient gods, and the Eye of Horus-also known as the "all-seeing eye."

It was recently discovered that ancient Egyptians made their own glass, which was previously thought to have been imported. This glass was used to make beads and also shawabtis, or small figurines buried with the dead. Metal jewelry was often enameled with glass, and later this evolved into the art of cloisonn, which remains a complex enameling process.

Presently, jewelry inspired by Egypt also includes the Islamic influence, with the resurgence of gold after it was forced out in Islam's earlier years. Many ancient designs are now styled with Arabic inscriptions instead of hieroglyphs, but their beauty is none the lesser.

Egypt's Influence on Jewelry over Time

By: Diane L.J. Nassy

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