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How To Tile A Wall

It can seem like a daunting task for any DIYer but with the right preparation and tools anyone can tile a wall

. So if you want to know how to tile - The Tile Depot can help.

Planning:

The first step to tiling a wall as with any DIY job is planning. Before starting the job measure the width and height of the wall space you want to tile so that you can work out how many tiles you are going to need.

All you need to do is take the width and length of the area to be tiled and multiply the two figures together. You then divide by the area of a single tile (so for example a 10x10cm square tile has an area of 100 cm). That will give you the number of tiles you are going to need but it is important to add on another 10 per cent for wastage and cutting and don't forget to allow for any windows or doors you are tiling around.


You are also going to need some other pieces of kit such as screws, a tape measure, a tile cutter, a drill, adhesive, grout, spacers, a tile saw, a plumb line, a serrated adhesive trowel, a rubber grouting float, soft dry cloths, goggles and gloves, battens, hammer and bolster chisel, sandpaper, a screwdriver and appropriate clothing.

Prepping the wall:

Once you have all the kit it is time to prep the wall. It is not great to tile over existing tiles but in some cases it may not be possible to remove them as in older houses they are sometimes laid on cement. If not the walls should be bare and clean. Then they need to be sanded down and a sealer applied.

Laying the tiles out:

To do this you need a guide rod made from a wooden baton. The idea is to put the baton onto the floor (you can use a spirit level to make sure it is straight) and then place the tiles along it with the spacers and mark where they lie on the baton. But if the tiles aren't square you will have to use a second rod and make one horizontal and one vertical.

You can now use the rod to mark where you want the bottom row of tiles on the wall to be and then nail that the rod to wall and do the same for the vertical one. And bear in mind if the wall has a window this will need to be taken into account so you don't have an awkward cut around it.

This will give you a right angle where you can start tiling.

Adhesive:

Now you can apply the adhesive to the wall it's important to follow the manufacturer's instructions but there are some tips that can be followed. Never put it on too big an area as you run the risk of it drying before you tile the whole area. You should also spread an even layer using a serrated spreader, and to produce ridges, which mean the adhesive will be even, use horizontal strokes and hold the spreader at a 45 degree angle.

Placing the tiles:

Paying particular attention to the first tile as that will determine the position of all the other tiles, you can now start sticking the tiles up - but don't forget the spacer! And if any adhesive spills onto the tile it can be wiped with a damp sponge.

Once the whole wall is done it needs to be left for 24 hours after that the spacers and rod can be removed and the partial tiles stuck round the edge.

Cutting tiles:

Whatever the wall space it is very unlikely that you can get away without cutting your tiles so it is important to get the proper equipment to do the job. You can either use a drill or a proper tile cutter. For straight edges a dry cutter is great but for more intricate edges or corners a wet cutter will be needed. Whatever, you use make sure you wear goggles so you don't damage your eyes.


Grouting:

Once the adhesive is dry the wall needs to be grouted. The best type to use is waterproof as it reduces the risk of mould.

Once the spacers have been taken out use a grout float to make long upwards diagonal strokes making sure the grout goes in all the gaps. Any spills should be removed immediately and wipe over the patch you have just grouted regularly with a damp cloth or sponge to stop it hardening. And when the grout is dry polish it with a dry cloth.

by: Toby Dicks
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