Lerma: A Typical Castilian Town

If you leave Madrid by car and take the highway A-1

, some 100 km later you will cross the massive Somosierra mountains and reach the northern Castilian plain, which covers the central Iberian peninsula like the French Massif Central. Driving further north you will reach Lerma, a prototype of the typical northern Castilian town.

In the 16th and 17th centuries it had become a very important junction and market place on the commercial route from central Spain to the Castilian ports on the shore of the Bay of Biskay, from where Spain wool from merino-sheep and textiles left the country bound for central Europe; while its imports, mainly gold and silver from the Americas, came in through the Spanish southern port, Seville.

These treasures from America were the financial stream that fed the Spanish Golden Age, which also has its own architectural exponent, the Herreriano Renaissance Style, of which Lerma is one of the best preserved. Castilians always have suffered the historic reputation of being harsh, strict and restrained, as this building style. Yet now, Castile is proud and glad to offer travellers its best in little towns like Lerma.

It is surrounded by a landscape of vineyards and soft hills crossed by the Duero and Arlanza rivers. The famous red wines of the Ribera del Duero Denomination of Origin grow here, together with its little sister, the Ribera del Arlanza D.O.Reaching Lerma by road, you will get the view of a typical Castilian town on a hilltop squeezed around an austere church from which only the belfry may be seen among the villages ceilings.

But in this case, there is a massive building that detaches on the horizon from far away and it seems as if it has the small town in its lap: the Palace of the Duques of Lerma. History knows the famous Duke of Lerma as being the head of the Spanish Kings Private Council for many years.This Palace, a quadrate with its towers presiding over one of the best Plaza Mayor or market Squares of Castile, has become one more member of the renowned Paradores hotel chain.

You will not only sleep in its luxurious rooms, but also inhale some of the atmosphere of the Spanish Renaissance palace of a Grandee, the elite among Spanish noblesse.Taking a chance of being in the midst of a wine growing region, you can also choose not only to visit some of the famous Bodegas wineries of the region like Vega Sicilia, but also to spend a night in the Arzuaga Bodega Hotel and Spa, another of the highlights of the region.The nearest airport lies in Madrid (170 km). You can reach Lerma by car and also by train.

by: Ruby John

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